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Flat drying cynaoacrylate
- Thread starter JSteinman
- Start date
I wish...
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I have used Hobby Lobby CA and the stuff from the local hobby shop that is labeled. My process involves placing a drop on a defunct sapphire crystal and applying it with a small tool. The left over then dries out. It has done so in a number of ways from semi hard to shatter crazed. When I clean off the crystal with a razor blade the semi hard chips off in chunks while the shatter crazed just comes off in almost a powder form.
They all tend to dry out different and if a bit thick, they will do weird things on the surface. None that I have used just dry to a flat finish.
What are you trying to do John? I might be able to figure something out if I knew.
I also have mixed new thin and old (getting thick and slow) CA together from 2 different brands and ended up with a thin, slow setting, tough as nails (not brittle) bond. Go figure that!
Now if I could only remember what I mixed.
They all tend to dry out different and if a bit thick, they will do weird things on the surface. None that I have used just dry to a flat finish.
What are you trying to do John? I might be able to figure something out if I knew.
I also have mixed new thin and old (getting thick and slow) CA together from 2 different brands and ended up with a thin, slow setting, tough as nails (not brittle) bond. Go figure that!
Now if I could only remember what I mixed.
ausf
Master at Arms
Did you ever try baking soda or even dry pigment?
I've seen people repair bone and ivory nuts on instruments using filed bone or ivory and CA, just like the baking soda trick. That leads me to believe baking soda might be a choice of convenience since it's a fine powder and widely available. If baking soda doesn't effect the sheen, perhaps another fine powder, like dry pigment would.
It's done in film makeup all the time, you apply the paint or makeup, then press powder into it. It not only deadens the sheen, but it sets it as well.
Might be worth a test.
I also have Gorilla CA on order, I've never tried it before, I'll pay attention to it's sheen.
I've seen people repair bone and ivory nuts on instruments using filed bone or ivory and CA, just like the baking soda trick. That leads me to believe baking soda might be a choice of convenience since it's a fine powder and widely available. If baking soda doesn't effect the sheen, perhaps another fine powder, like dry pigment would.
It's done in film makeup all the time, you apply the paint or makeup, then press powder into it. It not only deadens the sheen, but it sets it as well.
Might be worth a test.
I also have Gorilla CA on order, I've never tried it before, I'll pay attention to it's sheen.
JSteinman
Master at Arms
I am interested in how the gorilla glue works out. I am building paper plants and adding anything to the CA isn’t feasible.
Iron Mike
Master At Arms And Resident Curmudgeon
Gorilla's CA is very good, although it doesn't last as long after opening as other brands I've used. They have a thick (gel) formula and their regular, I didn't like the gel as much as the blue capped version.
Chuk turned me on to 3M Quick Dry Adhesive some years back. It dries hard and clear, I usually touch up the shiny spot with matte varnish. It holds PE, paper and all sorts of stuff. Don't buy the tacky formula, it's crap. Kenny's Gator Grip is one I have not tried, but lots of folks like it, I believe it to be a similar product. Neither of these are CA, but unless you need instant hold, the 3M sets up pretty fast, especially on paper.
Chuk turned me on to 3M Quick Dry Adhesive some years back. It dries hard and clear, I usually touch up the shiny spot with matte varnish. It holds PE, paper and all sorts of stuff. Don't buy the tacky formula, it's crap. Kenny's Gator Grip is one I have not tried, but lots of folks like it, I believe it to be a similar product. Neither of these are CA, but unless you need instant hold, the 3M sets up pretty fast, especially on paper.
ausf
Master at Arms
In that case, I'd try using a PVA with a green or brown (wherever the join is) dry pigment added and feather it out with water.
JSteinman
Master at Arms
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
As I don't really have a clue to what you are doing John, (guessing here) It seems that you are trying to glue some kind of paper product together and want a consistent finish on it.
Years ago when I was working in electronics, we would make prototype panels for prototype products using sticky backed paper and a laser printer. While it looked good, it didn't have a good finish to it. I found some spray called "Workable Fixative" made for artists. It didn't react with the toner and made it look like a vinyl applique. It is mainly done to protect watercolor, and pastel art and there are a number of types. Maybe these could solve your "finish" problem.
I did a search for Krylon Fine Art Fixative and found this link
Hope this might help.
Years ago when I was working in electronics, we would make prototype panels for prototype products using sticky backed paper and a laser printer. While it looked good, it didn't have a good finish to it. I found some spray called "Workable Fixative" made for artists. It didn't react with the toner and made it look like a vinyl applique. It is mainly done to protect watercolor, and pastel art and there are a number of types. Maybe these could solve your "finish" problem.
I did a search for Krylon Fine Art Fixative and found this link
Hope this might help.
