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Dragon Tauch Panzer IV- kit # 6402

kryptosdaddy

Active member
Finally got this started! This is my Dragon kit #6402 with the verlinden interior set # 2324 AND some more stuff...

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I began this on New Year’s eve 2012- since my return to building I have wanted a parts heavy tank to punish, well here I get to receive it myself as this kit is packed with a stack of near 20 sprues in Dragon’s light grey soft styrene –PE , separate rear guide wheels, a separately bagged turret top, snorkel, some clear pieces and those messed up “Majic Tracks” accompany a very nice fuel trailer, complete with two 50 gallon tanks and a hose to feed the tank.
The instructions were a matter all too familiar for Dragon- vague at best, except for the obvious. The molding is another thing, excellent detail with over 100 little plugs to remove, typical of Dragon so be prepared to sand a little. The kit really surprised me when I was assembling the road suspension, the front drive wheels have a bit of interior detail as in a drive cog, spindle and some things that look like bearings or oil seals. Methinks the kit was designed to be modified though the exterior drive wheels do not fit the peg that extends from the drive cog inside the front gear housing. The turret is very nicely represented, supplied with a nearly full interior and a split plastic barrel/breach. No metal barrel here, but the snorkel comes as a nice brass tube. The kit offers numerous options as to which mission deployment the tank is to represent in about 600 parts.

I need to take some more pics as the kit has progressed a bit since the photos below, bear in mind that this is going S L O W L Y.....I have one day a week to work and didn't even touch the kit in April! Lazy.

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See ya soon. CR
 
While I'm sitting here straightening this out, I would like to take a minute to mention some of the problems i have found so far with the kit.
1- The instructions were absolutely terrible when it came to setting the road wheel suspension parts, these sub assemblies WITHOUT the wheels were composed of 8 parts each. I had to build a jig to keep the wheels straight when I finally glued them on.
2- As I mentioned earlier the front drive wheels DO NOT fit the little pegs that are set inside the front gear housing, nit pick yes, but these things do matter.
3- In its submersible mode the Tauch Panzer has a cover for the gun mantlet, commander's Coppola and the front MG. The mantlet cover and the coppola covers are both represented in a cool vinyl, but they are meant to be replacements, not actual covers. The instructions did not mention this and I didn't know any better when I built the main gun. That said I'm working on some scrap covers. Be warned. (step 14 for the gun, 15 for the cover?)
4- Not really a complaint, but the kit has six doors on the body and four on the turrent that come as separate pieces, so far I have made one hinge set to get these to work- wish they had given me something to work with but thats just the way things go...
5- Finally (so far) Magic Tracks. What is so magic about these? I am open to any and all suggestions on working with these little tiddly winks, they are like little plastic jumping beans.
 
Try dealing with Panzer I tracks they are even smaller.

B)
 
Don't get excited- I'm just testing the new picture thingy now that the gallery is down. Thanks for all the work Bob. CR
 
OK Lets see if I can't give a general idea here.

One thing i did do was destroy the hatch cover over the radio operators seat. had to scratch another and its kinda alright.

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I know, over exposure! But look at the different hatch, that was scratched. It opens great- just wants to pull a draft when its closed.

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Now the hinges over the fighting compartment are scratched- and were a bull to rig. The turret hinges are kit. This is the only set with the kit, and I still have a few things to solve...Look at the vinyl mantlet cover on the left. This is a piece, a substitute part if you will, the instructions say NOTHING of this and have you build the gun before showing you that you must omit most of the barrels guard to use the cover. So I used it as a type of form to make my own out of cigarette pack foil. I'll somehow do the same with the coppola's cover and somehow rig it to remove as well.

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Interior at this point, lots of loose and missing parts for sure...

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Finally all the stuff (so far) together. I'm building the tank so it can be taken apart like this after finishing. As some of you know I have scratch built a few things, but THIS^^^ is easily the most involved thing I have tried with a ridiculously difficult kit.

As it sits here you are looking at around 340+ pieces and without the 216 pieces of 'lucky tracks' I estimate the build will weigh in at near 500 pieces.
 
Looking good. What happened to the front hatch? Did I read right, you're making the doors work? Could you show how you are doing it? Would be interesting to see. Big question is, are you having fun?? Looks like it so far.
James
 
Oops...about the magic tracks try making a jig with some balsa strips to keep them straight. Then lay some tape down sticky side up and some liquid glue (not much). Then wrap the whole thing around the running gear and add more glue. Or do what I do and get Fruil tracks. Much better alternative in my opinion and they sag beautifully.
James
 
James I don't have a picture but I solved the majic tracks problem by making a jig out of a plastic lid and some styrene 'L' strips from evergreen.

Now I do have very bad pics of the hinge assy, but I'll explain it quick...

PE scrap, I have some thats about 3/16 wide, I took a strip off a tree and marked it's center lengthwise then drilled holes every 3/32 of an inch. Then I cut.

I ended up with a pile of little pieces, I'll post the bad pic here....

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Hopefully you can get the idea from this terrible picture.The little pieces with the holes spaced at 3/32 inch were then bent into a U shaped bracket with needle nose pliers and a razor blade - then the drill was used again to clear the holes.

Then a piece of wire was inserted into the little 'brackets' and two pieces of a thinner piece of PE were glued to the top of the hatch, let dry and threaded through my hinge then glued at the bottom of the hatch.

Of course the hatchs' original hinge arms were adjusted here. I simply filed then out with the drill used to cut the PE's holes.

Out of maybe 12 brackets I got 4 that were acceptable. I sanded the original pieces before adding the hatch and made adjustments filing with an emory board no less- when it was all assembled. Then it was glued to the body with Gator Glue and taped down to dry.

They are useable hinges and they are tedious as heck to get right.

I ruined the hatch by trying to remove the PE straps with acetone, even though it was a ZAP product, the glue dissolver did disolve the plastic of the hatch! DAMMTT!!!!! lol

I have another solution for the top hatch, a slot and a tongue. For the rear, one engine hatch will be ope ratable, and the brake covers? Man I havnt figured that one out yet. To tiny to drill.

And I'm having a ball man! What a build.

And I really want to try Fruil tracks but for me the price is a bit prohibitive.I bought this kit with the dragon Flakpanzer for 50 bucks, so I got each for $25. A great price. Then I bought the interior set for $32, a set of Verlinden 7.5 CM shells for the Panzer IV but they are for the L-43 gun, NOT the L-24 here for $16,though I'm using these anyway as I'm loading this thing up with shells. Then I got a set of AVF 7.5 cm L-24 brass shells for another $16.

Thats 86 bucks, not counting paints and the $36 i spent on books about the Panzer IV and others, the cheapest price I found on Fruil tracks for this was $40 approx. So far I have nearly $90 in pieces and ammo alone here so I had to draw a line!
 
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