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XF-58 – OLIVE GREEN: 10 XF-2 – FLAT WHITE: 2 XF-3 – FLAT YELLOW: 1 or XF-4 Yellow Green: 5 XF-58 Olive Green: 5

Thanks all. I ordered vallejo and perfect. I will post my impressions because if I can use it anybody can. I am working on a trimaster pzkpfw I for dak with doc. I thought trimaster were fairly good fitting kits.

I am looking for a good acrylic putty. I have tried squadron, modeling paste and always come back to Tamiya. Tamiya is not bad but it dries to quick and using nail polish remover also removes the tape I put on both sides of the seam. I see that some people use automotive putty. Thanks in advance.

I have a Dragon DAK Kubelwagen and will be watching this. I am particularly interested on how you weather the inside of the vehicle. You have already been a big help with tank tracks in another thread. I have been very lucky to be building vehicles that just happened to have a class on them.

DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc) There is a contrast in tone in post 123. Which represents the actual color? Thank you so much for the track method. Between you an Iron Mike, tracks now are simply tedious. Yes Iron Mike, I gave up my jig and went your route. It is the way to go. At least...

DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc) First, let give my 2 cents to JSteinman. You have captured the desert bleached panzer grey perfectly. Stopping right there and weathering would look great. Second, Thank you for link Iron Mike. That looks like a great way of doing it. Right now I taped a...

DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc) "The tracks are not scary, just tedious! You will overcome!" My fears were justified. One link is ruined. The only way I see to do this is your method of gluing the tracks to the road wheels. Thank you for this thread and showing your method. I will...

DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc) I have just started the Tristar pzkfw I and will be DAK. It will be the first time with the individual track links. It really is the part of the build that is scaring me. I like your idea of gluing everything together and will be watching this build.

I feel the same way. I only use it when I have to. Seat belts for example. The Spandau machine gun in this tread is an example of what can be done. I believe the problem is majority of places that manufacture PE are steeped in monstrous evil. Therefore: if you are an ethical and moral modeler...

I am up to it, but I would like you to modify the rules. What I am thinking is a 10 for 10 anniversary build. 10 year anniversary with a limit of ten years to finish. This way some of us that are going full aftermarket resin, PE refinance the mortgage have a chance.

I have been using retarder and flow release (Golden) with Tamiya paints for years. It really helps in brushing and air brushing. I don't brush Tamiya paints a whole lot any more.

Having trouble with construction of the Tamiya Fw 190A-3 (I had to use putty), this book should help me get to the next level. I hope it has a chapter on using aluminum. I have seen a lot of advanced modelers using aluminum (cut coke cans) for various parts. I like the idea and don't see brass...

Practice, Practice, Practice… Very good job." That being said one of my self critiques is that I was a bit heavy handed with the overall level of the weathering. " I don't see it. I am very impressed.

I have always liked and used Tamiya. Tamiya has a flat (XF-86) already mixed if you do not want to use the base (X-21). I used to use Gunze acrylic and loved it. Since you can't get the Gunze acrylic in the US anymore, all my mixes are Tamyia (RLM, RAL, etc.). I haven't tried some of the other...

Thanks everyone for your advice. With your advice, I will give it another go. The canopy is from a bf 110. I am trying not to remove any paint.

I have glue left from mask. The best I have come up with is Bestine (a solvent/thinner). This does loosen it, but just pushes it around. I have tried tooth pick, q-tip, etc. I just can't get the residue to stick to anything to remove it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

When you got lemons, make lemonade. Try making whats left destroyed, burnt out etc. Any weathering/painting techniques sound interesting, but you have never tried?

I just noticed it is 1/32. Sometime during the build, could you put along side something to give us an idea of the size of this model? I am looking forward to this.

Thank you. Your method sounds easy enough for me.

Really good job. I have a plane that has been on the shelf for only one reason: rigging. I have looked around and have a pretty good idea on how it is done. It is amazing how many different methods there are for rigging and all are good way to go. Can you give a short description on how you did it?