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Archer Fine Transfers has released the second version of Surface Details series which uses resin on a decal film to produce bolts, rivets, fasteners, louvers, and casting marks. Now, thanks to the assistance of Kurt Laughlin, Archer has released a set of Surface Details specifically for a vehicle.
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While it is timed to be used with the recent Tasca M4A3 (76) HVSS release, it can be used on other Chrysler manufactured Shermans with the same turret, upper hull, or differential cover. For the purposes of this review, I have used a Dragon mantlet so that the black resin shows up easier than on the dark olive of the Tasca kit.
In a © Ziploc bag with a heavy paper header, we find the decal sheet along with some excellent instructions. See the above photograph for the cover and the sheet.
The instructions should be read first as it shows that Archer has provided the option of two different Chrysler manufactured Sherman M4A3 and extra casting symbols. What makes them superb is that the serial sequence is shown so that anyone building three of the same vehicle can avoid having the same serials even if from the same batch! Extra numerals are provided for this purpose.
The sheet itself is not very large at 1.7 x 2.2 inches (4.3 cm x 5.6 cm). However, it does include the correctly sized and configured casting marks for even the turret bullet splash guards and the Machine gun mount on the rear turret ventilator cover.
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To use, I prepared the items I normally round up for wet decals. These include brushes, tweezers, decal setting and softener solutions, sharp scissors or blade, and Future acrylic wax should the decal's adhesion not be what I want.
/gallery/albums/userpics/10065/Decalwork_002.JPGAfter the part to be decaled has been washed and is completely dry, prepare a saucer with VERY warm (almost hot) water. Now is time to cut the decals needed. Remember that this sheet has a continuous film. Using the scalpel (or a sharp blade) lightly cut close to the markings you wish to use. The idea is to cut the film but not the backing paper. After this is done, use scissors to cut the decals, with backing paper, free from the sheet. The specific decals are now ready to be used.
After placing the decals in very warm water for ten seconds, they were removed from the water and placed on a folded paper towel to continue soaking the paper backing. When first placed in the water, the rear of the sheet expands as it absorbs water but the front (decal film) doesn't absorb so it curls. Placing it on the paper towel allows the absorption to continue and the decal flattens out as the adhesive gets wet and releases from the paper backing. Being on the paper towel, no need to fish it out.
/gallery/albums/userpics/10065/Decalwork_003.JPG
The decal is then placed, with paper backing, near the final resting point. A brush moistened with decal setting solution (or Future) is used to wet the area where the decal will remain. Using tweezers to hold the edge of the decal paper, the brush is used to move the decal off the backing and into the final position.
After the decal is where one wants it, a clean brush moistened with decal solvent is dabbed onto the decal and final adjustments made. A paper towel's edge can be used to wick away excess solvent solution. Since it is to be painted over, no worries about silvering.
This is an excellent idea whose time has finally come. Do not limit yourself into believing it is only for the Tasca kit. Comparing the casting marks to photographs of the real thing, the accuracy is there in terms of size, markings, and locations shown in the instructions. This set is highly recommended as it is not expensive at $6.95USD but sure to set your model apart.
Archer Fine Transfers has released the second version of Surface Details series which uses resin on a decal film to produce bolts, rivets, fasteners, louvers, and casting marks. Now, thanks to the assistance of Kurt Laughlin, Archer has released a set of Surface Details specifically for a vehicle.
------------------------------------
While it is timed to be used with the recent Tasca M4A3 (76) HVSS release, it can be used on other Chrysler manufactured Shermans with the same turret, upper hull, or differential cover. For the purposes of this review, I have used a Dragon mantlet so that the black resin shows up easier than on the dark olive of the Tasca kit.
In a © Ziploc bag with a heavy paper header, we find the decal sheet along with some excellent instructions. See the above photograph for the cover and the sheet.
The instructions should be read first as it shows that Archer has provided the option of two different Chrysler manufactured Sherman M4A3 and extra casting symbols. What makes them superb is that the serial sequence is shown so that anyone building three of the same vehicle can avoid having the same serials even if from the same batch! Extra numerals are provided for this purpose.
The sheet itself is not very large at 1.7 x 2.2 inches (4.3 cm x 5.6 cm). However, it does include the correctly sized and configured casting marks for even the turret bullet splash guards and the Machine gun mount on the rear turret ventilator cover.
/gallery/albums/userpics/10065/Decalwork_001.JPG
To use, I prepared the items I normally round up for wet decals. These include brushes, tweezers, decal setting and softener solutions, sharp scissors or blade, and Future acrylic wax should the decal's adhesion not be what I want.
/gallery/albums/userpics/10065/Decalwork_002.JPGAfter the part to be decaled has been washed and is completely dry, prepare a saucer with VERY warm (almost hot) water. Now is time to cut the decals needed. Remember that this sheet has a continuous film. Using the scalpel (or a sharp blade) lightly cut close to the markings you wish to use. The idea is to cut the film but not the backing paper. After this is done, use scissors to cut the decals, with backing paper, free from the sheet. The specific decals are now ready to be used.
After placing the decals in very warm water for ten seconds, they were removed from the water and placed on a folded paper towel to continue soaking the paper backing. When first placed in the water, the rear of the sheet expands as it absorbs water but the front (decal film) doesn't absorb so it curls. Placing it on the paper towel allows the absorption to continue and the decal flattens out as the adhesive gets wet and releases from the paper backing. Being on the paper towel, no need to fish it out.
/gallery/albums/userpics/10065/Decalwork_003.JPG
The decal is then placed, with paper backing, near the final resting point. A brush moistened with decal setting solution (or Future) is used to wet the area where the decal will remain. Using tweezers to hold the edge of the decal paper, the brush is used to move the decal off the backing and into the final position.
After the decal is where one wants it, a clean brush moistened with decal solvent is dabbed onto the decal and final adjustments made. A paper towel's edge can be used to wick away excess solvent solution. Since it is to be painted over, no worries about silvering.
This is an excellent idea whose time has finally come. Do not limit yourself into believing it is only for the Tasca kit. Comparing the casting marks to photographs of the real thing, the accuracy is there in terms of size, markings, and locations shown in the instructions. This set is highly recommended as it is not expensive at $6.95USD but sure to set your model apart.