OK, for the final lesson on dry brushing, I will use the Jumbo Sherman mentioned and pictured in lesson five.
Using exactly the same method as explained in lesson 5, I have dry brushed in the center of areas and panels. I always like the panels, squares and rectangles on a vehicle to blend from dark on the outer edges to light in the center. Always make sure you are dry brushing with only a slightly lighter color. Too much and the contrast will be stark.
As I used the matt 155 and the matt 72, it tends to be a bit more of a green cast.
Can you see what I mean about working dark to light in the center in any given area? The sun bakes the center of the panels more than the edges, and this way creates a natural appearance.
Next, I use the very same mixture of artist's oil raw umber and rectified turpentine on a pallet.
Then using a very fine brush, anything smaller than a number 1. I used a Winsor Newton 7 series 000. Make sure the wash is thin enough to achieve capillary action when you touch the brush to an indented area, the paint runs for a distance inside that groove. I have known people that do this with black paint, but, in my opinion, that is too harsh and doesn't look real. After the raw umber mixture dries, it will darken the indentation but not look like it was painted in.
Now, here is how I weather the rubber band tracks that come with the kit. Many people only use the separate track links and I do as well, sometimes. Honestly, with this system, you have to look close to see if they are rubber band tracks Here is the ARV M-32 B1 that I used this method.
Begin by using cardboard longer that the length of the two tracks. Here is where you use the Burnt Sienna artist's oil, thin with the rectified turpentine on a pallet and just paint the track till it is a reddish color.
Let dry for a couple of days. It will be dead flat and a nice uniform color of rusted metal.
This is an option for those who want a muddy appearance on the tracks. Using a pallet and the Matt 29, Flat Earth, mix a bit on the pallet with rectified turps. Then using a flat wide brush, begin stippling the track. Hold the brush vertically, (Perpendicular), to the track and just jab it randomly to achieve a mud splattered appearance. Do that on both sides of each track.
When finished, they should look something like this.
If you don't wish to have a muddy water splashed hull, you can eliminate the stippling and use the washed track as is.
The different units on my large diorama will have a similar lightly mud splashed appearance, since they have all been through the identical terrain. So..... I will also stipple the mud onto the lower parts of the hull. Just use the same method as the tracks and randomly hit the road wheels, the lower hull behind them and parts of the hull immediately above the wheels on the hull sides.
Here are some pics of the jumbo with the wash and dry brushing almost finished. I have began to add detail in preparation for the next lesson.
This last photo shows the tank crew and the tank riders that will be on the finished vehicle. You will note this tank has 4 machine guns. The normal hull MG, the normal .50 cal on the turret plus a .30 cal forward of the commanders cupola, and another .50 cal on the right side of the main gun on the mantlet. This was standard armament in the 37th armored regiment of the 4th armored division in WW II, commanded by Col. Creighton Abrams. That unit also added plate armor to the front and sides of the hull and the sides of the turrets of their M4A3s, but already having thicker armor, the Jumbo wasn't fitted out with it!
The next set of lessons will cover paint chipping, scratches, rusting, metalizing, (Making the tank appear metal-like), detailing, final finishing and staining. Plus, a way to turn flaws into cool looking weathering.
Bob
Using exactly the same method as explained in lesson 5, I have dry brushed in the center of areas and panels. I always like the panels, squares and rectangles on a vehicle to blend from dark on the outer edges to light in the center. Always make sure you are dry brushing with only a slightly lighter color. Too much and the contrast will be stark.
As I used the matt 155 and the matt 72, it tends to be a bit more of a green cast.
Can you see what I mean about working dark to light in the center in any given area? The sun bakes the center of the panels more than the edges, and this way creates a natural appearance.
Next, I use the very same mixture of artist's oil raw umber and rectified turpentine on a pallet.
Then using a very fine brush, anything smaller than a number 1. I used a Winsor Newton 7 series 000. Make sure the wash is thin enough to achieve capillary action when you touch the brush to an indented area, the paint runs for a distance inside that groove. I have known people that do this with black paint, but, in my opinion, that is too harsh and doesn't look real. After the raw umber mixture dries, it will darken the indentation but not look like it was painted in.
Now, here is how I weather the rubber band tracks that come with the kit. Many people only use the separate track links and I do as well, sometimes. Honestly, with this system, you have to look close to see if they are rubber band tracks Here is the ARV M-32 B1 that I used this method.
Begin by using cardboard longer that the length of the two tracks. Here is where you use the Burnt Sienna artist's oil, thin with the rectified turpentine on a pallet and just paint the track till it is a reddish color.
Let dry for a couple of days. It will be dead flat and a nice uniform color of rusted metal.
This is an option for those who want a muddy appearance on the tracks. Using a pallet and the Matt 29, Flat Earth, mix a bit on the pallet with rectified turps. Then using a flat wide brush, begin stippling the track. Hold the brush vertically, (Perpendicular), to the track and just jab it randomly to achieve a mud splattered appearance. Do that on both sides of each track.
When finished, they should look something like this.
If you don't wish to have a muddy water splashed hull, you can eliminate the stippling and use the washed track as is.
The different units on my large diorama will have a similar lightly mud splashed appearance, since they have all been through the identical terrain. So..... I will also stipple the mud onto the lower parts of the hull. Just use the same method as the tracks and randomly hit the road wheels, the lower hull behind them and parts of the hull immediately above the wheels on the hull sides.
Here are some pics of the jumbo with the wash and dry brushing almost finished. I have began to add detail in preparation for the next lesson.
This last photo shows the tank crew and the tank riders that will be on the finished vehicle. You will note this tank has 4 machine guns. The normal hull MG, the normal .50 cal on the turret plus a .30 cal forward of the commanders cupola, and another .50 cal on the right side of the main gun on the mantlet. This was standard armament in the 37th armored regiment of the 4th armored division in WW II, commanded by Col. Creighton Abrams. That unit also added plate armor to the front and sides of the hull and the sides of the turrets of their M4A3s, but already having thicker armor, the Jumbo wasn't fitted out with it!
The next set of lessons will cover paint chipping, scratches, rusting, metalizing, (Making the tank appear metal-like), detailing, final finishing and staining. Plus, a way to turn flaws into cool looking weathering.
Bob
I'm anxious to get some on the Sherman.
