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Late '44

B

BradJ

Member
Hi there all
Been quite some time since having any impetus to do anything constructive.
I am tinkering with a new diorama scene which I hope to follow through to its' conclusion, as I am notorious for 90% finished stuff...
It is a scene displaying a M4 medium tank negotiating a sodden paddock/field, following the rest of its' platoon who have churned up the field.
The first few photos are a quick overview of base construction. My aim is to get it done, so I am skimping on certain aspects and doing it 'on the cheap'.
A $5 frame from a $2 shop (?)
This one is actually different from most picture frames I have used in that I had to insert some balsa wood 'packers' to fill out the space between the backing board and the top edge of the frame. (there was a secondary frame insert which I removed to give me the depth required for the scene itself.)

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The frame was masked off and the packers were glued with PVA and also a bead was run around the backing board.

I used the frames' paper insert to rough out the scene I had in mind. Placing a spare M4 in place, I ended up switching its' direction and sketched where I wanted the churned furrows to be running. My aim is to showcase the furrows in as realistic a way as possible, and having parallel and criss-crossing tank track effects in a small area would be a challenge, but will pay off if done realistically.

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Half the battle of an attractive compact scene is the flow of the action as well as juxtaposing some elements, and as there are no structures present, I have used the depth of the frame itself to give me some angle for the tank as it dips down into the sodden section of the field, from off more solid ground.

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I plan to have some higher ground to the left and forward of the tank, with possibly a damaged post and wire fence which was driven over by the lead tank which will give a background to the tank itself.

Well that's all for now. Work has been flat out and I'm trying to squeeze some progress in here and there...
Brad
 
This looks really neat, welcome back into the groove Brad. I like seeing this from the planning stage.
 
B to the Rad,

I don't know what's more cool, you back at the bench or cooking up another mud scene. Can't wait doood.

BTW, I think I have the perfect figure for such a scene. I used to know this bloke who had mad skill sculpting little army dudes, he sent me one a long time ago, so long ago he forgot what it looked like. Thanks to my friend Steve of Celticwerks, this little dude has been multiplying.

Maybe you could use one? :laugh:

BRAD-SCULPT.jpg




*Although, I carved mines head a bit and fit a helmet there...

;)
 
Yeah I believe that's a Hornet head tucked in there amongst the milliput or whatever he uses.



*No worries though, these were just made for me and Braddles, the head has since been removed and the figure cast headless until a suitable (see: marketable) replacement can be sculpted.

:ro:
 
Hey Bob
Thanks, it is good to get the interest back, if not the girl... (long story)

Hey Reho I do remember that figure now! You may want to trim the front right collar to incorporate the gas flap which sat inside behind the top of the zipper when zipped to the top.
You have done a good job of casting him Manfred! One piece. *Most impressive...*
I actually don't mind his pose. It gives him a look of disdain... ;)
No more progress on the base at the moment, but have been tinkering with some sculpting and have a couple of figures near completion...
Brad
 
Okay, some progress!
I am filling out the depth in sections as required with Plaster of paris, leaving the top layer and the track areas for my more refined wood-filler later.
P of P, brown acrylic paint and water.

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Here I have laid the basic drawing over the top of the scene and extended the track lines over the taped frame work. I can use this as an extrapolated reference point when building up the layers for exacting track mark locations.

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I used 5mm thick balsa as the wall for the heightened rise to the rear right of the scene. The balsa was marked to be trimmed later to the height and gradient required.

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Now the mound here looks nasty, but is quite irrelevant in so far as the finished product will look.

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So both areas that have no track grooves to be added are bulked out now.
The finer work will begin between...

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Here I am using the woodfiller which is tinted a different colour. I used the marked points on the taped off frame to run some temporary track marks through on the original trajectories as per the drawing.

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I pressed in DML DS tracks, as their flexibility is great for removal and cleaning. (Remember to lay them the correct way per your intended scene!)
As the filler hardens, the edges of the tracks can be turned/tilled with different tools for different effects. You have a much longer working time with it than P of P, so you can gradually realise the look you are after.
A trick is to add some 'squeezed out' mud over the end connectors and let the filler cure further. The track can be removed even when fully cured, and this gives a sharp defined edge to track marks without damaging any of the churned mud.

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I built up this track mark and applied the same principle.

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You will see that I can pour the section next to it later and bring it up to the same level. This way I can work details to a finished height/surface level with each mix.
Here's a shot the next day when fully dried/cured.

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The cross over trackmarks as can be seen in the foreground of the drawing...

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Brad
 
Looks wonderful! nothing beats playing in the mud :)
What kind of woodfiller do you use?
Keep up the good work! i will follow and learn :)
 
Too cool. Could you also make a thread with your mud sbs in the Sprue U section? Would be good to keep where everyone can find it for future ref. (y) (y)
James
 
Hey Mooners, Bob, James. Thanks for dropping in and having a butchers. :)
James, this can be done no probs once I have completed the base and subsequent photos of...

The next section poured.


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This is the area of ground underneath the tank.

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The track lengths are laid out, using the tank to get an accurate spacing and positioning. They were positioned after the slurry had hardened a little.

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A little while later again, with the tracks peeled off slowly leaving the impressions I need.

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Slowly slowly ;)

Brad
 
Brad... wow wow wow...

Nice work and nice way of doing it.
Your work will serve me like tutorial for a future work that I have in mind.

THE METHOD: Plaster + Acrylic paint + Water

I have desire of seeing the following steps.

See you!

Yago.
 
Bradders,

Dunno if this the kinda feedback you're looking for... but the latest plaster pour looks just like one of Junior's "special" nappies :stinker :sick: :blink just kidding :laugh: Looks a good rendition of mud, mate (y)

R~

p.s. how's the neck? You gotta stop headbutting bees, mate :bang head
 
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