Kingforce Churchill

[Chris ITA]

Hi Guys,

Here is my latest project, a Kingforce Churchill:

Now this will not be a 'full build' as such, as this thing is already half built.

When I do shows as Inside the Armour, I have a couple of semi-built models on the table to show how the interior kit looks assembled, but unpainted

I have recently made significant improvements to the kit (expect an imminent announcement) so I decided to retire the semi built churchill from its current duty, and paint and finish it. This allows me to show one on the stand built to prove you really can see a lot through the hatches and I will replace it on the stand with an unpainted new build featuring the new features


Now, there will also be a bit of additional work required, because despite the box art, you can't quite build a Kingforce churchill out of the box. These changes are:

1. curved exhaust extensions
2. 5 inch rear air outlet (with solid deflector)
3. no smoke dischargers
4. Side air inlets need to be dropped approximately 1mm
5. no mud scrapers
6. no stripper bars
7. Sunshield Rail
8. Auxilliary fuel tank

So far I have painted the interior and started to add the partss previously left off as they were not needed to show the interior:

Chris

 

[Jenny Croft]

NIIIIICCCCCEEEEE

Will you be adding the dust deflector shown in the third photo ?

Jenny :kiss:

 

[Chris ITA]

Thanks Jenny

Yes, I'll be adding a scratchbuilt one. Hobby fan do one, but I do enjoy a challenge

 

[lupanzer]

...cool project Chris...good luck on this one!

Best!

Luiz.

 

[Chris ITA]

Thanks Luiz

Not much progress on this one today, but a little.

The rivets were added (2 sizes) to the rear plate, working from a good shot of the rear of a MkII with the same 5 inch outlet in Chris Ellis' 'Churchill Tank' from the defunct 'Tanks in Action' series

I also added the exhausts to the top, and air inlets to the side. These inlets are slightly lower on early MkIIIs than in the kit. Shave off the locating pins on the back of the inlets, and the locating bar on the pannier sides, and drop the inlets about 1mm so that the tops are in line with the edge of the mudguards:

I also added the hull rivets. These look problematic to clean up. All you do is clip them from the sprue, glue them in, then use a sharp blade to trim the excess from the attachment points. Easy

That's all for now

Chris

 

[modelguru]

That is gone be awesome. have you seen the handful of churchils with a panzer cupola?

 

[Chris ITA]

Thanks Modelguru

"have you seen the handful of churchils with a panzer cupola? "

er.... yes:
http://www.tanksandthings.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=53&func=view&catid=15&id=32074
:laugh:

 

[Chris ITA]

Done some more today

Considering AFV Club put the Kingforce scheme on the boxart, you'd think they'd make it possible to build one OOB :huh: but more mods came today.....


First I borrowed an auxillary fuel tank from Italeri spares:

AFV club give you the brackets, but not the tank!


Next I replaced the engine hatch prop rds with brass rod. The kit ones are fine, but life is too short to clean attachment points from easily snapped plastic rod!

I also looked at the A set mast on the turret roof. AFV Club give you the mid to late war churchill mast with the inverted conical basket. This is very nice and everything, but wrong for this type of MkIII. You can just shave off the basket from the kit one, but I used an armorscale replacement

Finally, I added the masking as it was easier to do it now before a couple more details go on

About two hours more and its paint time

 

[modelguru]

I cant wait too see more build faster faster ....
It is looking good.

 

[Chris ITA]

Thanks MG :laugh:

Nearly done!

Today I have mostly:

placed the tools in the correct configuration for an early MkIII (note the filling in the kit's locating holes, the kit has you place them in a later configuration:

Placed the spare track on in the right way, using a short track pin (the AFV Club instructions don't mention this and U've lost count of the builds I've seen where its wrong as a result of poor instructions:

Added the doors and hatches (this is why I masked earlier as it would have been tough with the hatches and doors in place)

I finished the turret:

Oh yes, and I scratched that dust skirt

Nearly there, just the sunshield rails and stowage to do

 

[modelguru]

lookin good chris the sand skirt is a nice touch. cant wait too see more.

 

[Chris ITA]

Thanks MG

I have been a busy boy!

First I added the aerials to the turret

Then the sunshield rails and a mix of spares box and homebrew stowage

Quite please with how this home made nt roll came out

and without further ado, I primed, preshaded and got some light stone on B)

This was done late yesterday, and in my experience vallejo model air needs a good 24 hours to cure before you can mask for the second camo colour.

So more later tonight

 

[Jenny Croft]

Brilliantly preshaded and looking mighty nice now .

Jenny :kiss:

 

[jose luis lopez]

I will not add any comment to your assembly work. Just looking at it I fell overhelmed.

And I´m sure that I´ll enjoy your painting work.

Regards

 

[lupanzer]

Dear Chris.

...excelent painting job...very nice effects!

Best!

Luiz.

 

[Chris ITA]

Thanks guys :laugh:

OK, so since last I posted I masked off the camo scheme using the superb tamiya masking tape. Looking at photos, it seems there is a fair amount of variance in the scheme which is unusual for British tanks of the time as there were strict guidelines on the disruptive camo

That being said, no disruptive scheme was ever specially designed for the Churchill and instead the Crusader Scheme was used. This seems to have been hand applied which may account for the variance

anyway, less talky talky, more piccie piccie :laugh:

After that had been sprayed the AB was put away as the rest of the painting will be done by hairy brush. So the moment of truth, did any paint get to the interior?

No!


MORE>>>>

 

[Chris ITA]

With that done I added the decals coated in Johnson's Klear (Future in the US I believe)

Once that had dried I dampened a brush in artist's 'Sans Odor' thinners for oils and brushed it all over the model

I immediately added a wash of oil paints (Burned Sienna and black mixed) heavily diluted with thinners, sloshing it all over

I left this a couple of hours for the excess thinners to evaporate but not long enough for it to dry, then I added a smudge of undiluted oil (white and ochre mix) to the centre of each panel. Using a small dry brush I rubbed and worked this in, using the brush to blend it into the darker wash as I reached the edge of the panel, giving a nice soft transition

(Unfortunately you don't get the full effect in the photos as its hard with the oils reflecting light. all should become clearer once I can get some matt on it )

No more now for two or three days, as I need the oils to dry and there is quite a lot of it on the model. More once it is dry and I can move on

All comments, criticisms etc welcome

Chris

 

[Chris ITA]

This one has now been finished, the results are in the Showcase :cheer: