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B25J interior color.

The Zod

Active member
Right then..............I have this 1/32 scale B25J at home. That build will not be done in the truck,as it is a big kit. I am an aircraft noob. What would the interior color be? I am guessing it was a zink chromate primer. This build is gonna take me awhile.
 
Here's your nobby primer Chad

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2004/01/stuff_eng_interior_colours_us.htm

From what I have read it would have been a bit of all of it, Interior Green, Zinc Green, Aluminum, Grey, even black in some places.

My go to color would be Interior Green with Zinc Chromat in spots.
 
Here's your nobby primer Chad

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2004/01/stuff_eng_interior_colours_us.htm

From what I have read it would have been a bit of all of it, Interior Green, Zinc Green, Aluminum, Grey, even black in some places.

My go to color would be Interior Green with Zinc Chromat in spots.

Thanks Bob. :) I hope I am not in over my head with this build. :frantic :drool :pilot
 
I was thinking We had a B-25 campaign going to start soon ... Don't worry about the time it takes I have a 17 that still isn't finished that I started when Me & the Missus got married ... :pilot
 
Some notes (yes, I have been working on my Havocs). The US had a cockpit color, interior green, of which there were several shades based on the material. Huh? Well, soundproofing in the cockpit in the form of 'interior (Bronze) green' quilted panels were a different shade of the interior green seen in other areas. The rest of the aircraft was Zinc Chromate yellow or simply lacquered.

Instead of explaining it, here is an excerpt from the B-25H (sorry but the glass nose J rarely had a sharkmouth so I haven't bought the TM) E&M manual:

h49189d4.jpg


h2cc87a5.jpg


h593eb85.jpg


Some notes... Lemon Green is the cast (visual hue) of the Zinc Chromate Primer used. Yellow-Green is Zinc Chromate green cast. Ensure you read section 4-B on page 626 for specific to what you asked.

Regards,
 
From when I took aircraft stuff in college many moons ago, there is the zinc chromate green that is rather bright and a zinc chromate yellow which is yellow with a "touch" of grey in it. The yellow was used in areas like engine nacells and areas not readily visible. Some areas like the rear fuselage probably only had a clear laquer on them. Weight savings and the planes were not intended to last more than the service life in the war.

The restoration of the Memphis Bell has the rear fuselage in natural aluminum inside. (With a clear laquer) So do some research. Also the engines are wrong, there are only supposed to be 2 pushrods and valves per cylinder, not 4. Why no one is making a good AM engine for this kit, I don't know.
 
The restoration of the Memphis Bell has the rear fuselage in natural aluminum inside. (With a clear laquer) So do some research. Also the engines are wrong, there are only supposed to be 2 pushrods and valves per cylinder, not 4. Why no one is making a good AM engine for this kit, I don't know.

Who has 4 pushrod covers on the cylinders?
 
The restoration of the Memphis Bell has the rear fuselage in natural aluminum inside. (With a clear laquer) So do some research. Also the engines are wrong, there are only supposed to be 2 pushrods and valves per cylinder, not 4. Why no one is making a good AM engine for this kit, I don't know.

Who has 4 pushrod covers on the cylinders?

I think he means the B25J. If that is the case,I think Eduard has some PE cowling covers.
 
The HK B-25J kit has engines that are incorrect. Th kit engines have 4 pushrods on each cylinder (2 in front and 2 in back of each cylinder) That goes for both the front and rear set of cylinders. The valve covers are real long to do this as well. If you build the kit with the cowlings closed should be no big deal.

If you want to build them showing off the engines, it becomes a bust. Why Eduard has not released a set of corrected R-2600 engines for this kit I don't know. There aren't any AM R-2600 engines out there.

As far as I know that is the only real flaw in the kit. Don't forget to add enough weight up front or it will be a tail sitter.
 
From when I took aircraft stuff in college many moons ago, there is the zinc chromate green that is rather bright and a zinc chromate yellow which is yellow with a "touch" of grey in it. The yellow was used in areas like engine nacelles and areas not readily visible. Some areas like the rear fuselage probably only had a clear laquer on them. Weight savings and the planes were not intended to last more than the service life in the war.

The restoration of the Memphis Bell has the rear fuselage in natural aluminum inside. (With a clear laquer) So do some research. Also the engines are wrong, there are only supposed to be 2 pushrods and valves per cylinder, not 4. Why no one is making a good AM engine for this kit, I don't know.

Paul, while this is true for the Flying Fortress, the Erection & Maintenance Manual scans I posted are for the B-25H which was built at the same time as the B-25J.

Great to see someone else with aviation training. I am a graduate of Aviation High School in NYC earning the A&P Licenses, Avionics degree, and graduate of Flight Town USA (Pilot's School). Some say I left a legacy. ;)
606035199_6da291348a.jpg


Regards,
 
The HK B-25J kit has engines that are incorrect. Th kit engines have 4 pushrods on each cylinder (2 in front and 2 in back of each cylinder) That goes for both the front and rear set of cylinders. The valve covers are real long to do this as well. If you build the kit with the cowlings closed should be no big deal.

If you want to build them showing off the engines, it becomes a bust. Why Eduard has not released a set of corrected R-2600 engines for this kit I don't know. There aren't any AM R-2600 engines out there.

As far as I know that is the only real flaw in the kit. Don't forget to add enough weight up front or it will be a tail sitter.

I have doubts that Eduards/Brassin could pull it off correctly, yeah i'm bitter. Vector engines doesn't have them?
 
I have doubts that Eduards/Brassin could pull it off correctly, yeah i'm bitter. Vector engines doesn't have them?

I have been looking since I picked up the glass nose kit a couple of years ago. No Vector in 1/32 or anyone else. As to engines, the B-17 engines Eduard made are awesome! I found one item with them that could have been done differently and would have made them a little bit easier to build. Have not seen the engines for the Corsair, but the engine for the Revell Me-109 G6 is quite nice. Even if Eduard made some R-2600 engines and they were off a little bit, they would be better than those in the kit.

On the other hand the TBF Avenger used the same engine, so you could obtain the Trumpy kit and maybe do a resin cast of its engine to make some better engines for the Mitchell and fix it. For now that is the only other source of a 1/32nd scale Wright R-2600 engine. :bang head

It seems that most of the other warbirds used R-2800 engines. :unsure: So :bang head some more.

Sorry we jacked your thread Chad!. :smack Hope the info helps! :facepalm
 
The HK B-25J kit has engines that are incorrect. Th kit engines have 4 pushrods on each cylinder (2 in front and 2 in back of each cylinder) That goes for both the front and rear set of cylinders. The valve covers are real long to do this as well. If you build the kit with the cowlings closed should be no big deal.

If you want to build them showing off the engines, it becomes a bust. Why Eduard has not released a set of corrected R-2600 engines for this kit I don't know. There aren't any AM R-2600 engines out there.

As far as I know that is the only real flaw in the kit. Don't forget to add enough weight up front or it will be a tail sitter.

Thanks for the info and tips Paul. I am real tempted to paint this in the European 1 camo scheme. :geek
 
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