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PE Hates me...and I Hate PE

Sorry for not getting back to this earlier...been another crazy week on the homestead.

I received a couple of offline questions about what tools (if any) I have for working with PE and also what Am I having problems with.

So first the tools...

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So as you can see I thinking I'm ok on proper tools but you will notice no soldering setup, so that will have to be addressed if I decide to continue messing with PE in the long term.

As for "what I'm having problems with" is a little more difficult to directly answer. The photos below show what I was working with during this most recent...fun fest...NOT!

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I think the issues fall into three areas.

1. Mindset. For whatever reason I totally stress myself out about working with PE even before I start. I feel like I have only one shot to get it "right" and if it doesn't happen then the entire PE project is botched. Unlike styrene when I can just chuck the botched attempt and start over, for PE I have to buy a new set.

2. Ridiculously small parts and crazy as shapes. I mean really who the hell is thinking up some of the stuff. As I get older my eyesight is getting worst so it harder to see what it is my doing.

3. Lack of Dexterity. My stubby little fingers just don't seem to have the feaness needed to work with the ridiculously small parts

So the above three items happen more or less at the same time resulting in the fun of the hobby getting totally sucked out of the room and destroying any of my motivation to continue. Then I ask myself "what am I even putting up with this for"...Dude Just build the way you want and enjoy it for what it is.

See working like this doesn't help either Armorama Merkava Mk3.

Sorry for the RANT :facepalm :smack
 
That's not really a rant, those are valid points. Mindset is pretty critical, I have to be "feeling it" to do any kind of modeling. As for that Merkava, that's like watching major league sports. Picking your battles goes a long way toward enjoying a build, who will notice that working shovel clasp at a show? Some will, but most won't. :idonno

Party on. :mpup

:drinks
 
I think you may be missing a very important tool, a lighter to anneal the brass. When you are doing curved parts like your strap above, I would gently heat the part to kill and springiness and make it easy to work with.

As to small, yeah, my opinion is if it isn't better than the kit part, don't use it! That may help a bit.

Mindset - well mind over matter, and oh yeah PE isn't required, except for grill work...

HTH.
 
Another tool I don't see is sanding, filing stuff.

Sure nuff, you want to bring that stuff over to the house we'll do a session Sunday.
 
I also have some diamond hone plates. 400 grit, 600 grit, and 1200 grit. That works quite well to clean up some of the fret connections.

As John stated, heating some parts to anneal them is another technique. I also use a firm rubber mat to help curve parts as you can place the part on top of the rubber and roll something on top to make it curve. Solid parts usually curve quite well that way. If it has holes or any areas that are narrower or notched the part has to be annealed first or it will tend to bend at the "weak" point.

I also use these shears that are specifically made for clipping PE. They really work quite well.

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I feel the same way. I only use it when I have to. Seat belts for example. The Spandau machine gun in this tread is an example of what can be done. I believe the problem is majority of places that manufacture PE are steeped in monstrous evil. Therefore: if you are an ethical and moral modeler, you will have problems with PE.
 
OK, My 2 cents worth.

Adhesives.

Mike turned me on to 3M Quick Dry Adhesive a while ago. Hobby Lobby in the scrap-booking section. It's a contact adhesive. A tiny swipe on both surfaces, let it cure and join the two parts. You get a second chance if it isn't quite prefect. I suspect this is Testors Clear Parts adhesive in a bigger, less costly bottle. It's water-soluble so clean-up is a breeze. I use this on my mold Masters too. It doesn't react with RTV mold compounds if it isn't totally cured.
Then 2, Future, for the teeniest parts. A needle stuck in an old pencil's eraser or a dinky brush are my preferred applicators. If you miss, let it cure and give it another shot.

I use C/A glues too, but bear in mind you're totally committed on the first attempt.

I learned these things here on M/A.
 
I consider PE to be in the same category as wall paper and neck ties, all designed by some sadist to torture men.
 
I feel your pain. I have a love hate relationship also. Get your self a good folding too as they really help. I use the Bug more than the full length one. Then solder is good especially if you are good at it. Crazy glue is good also. And I have been playing around some with the UV glue and that works not bad. Youo see it at walmart and on tv. A thick paste so apply with a tooth pick and then use the uv light to harden it.
James
 
jknaus said:
I feel your pain. I have a love hate relationship also. Get your self a good folding too as they really help. I use the Bug more than the full length one. Then solder is good especially if you are good at it. Crazy glue is good also. And I have been playing around some with the UV glue and that works not bad. Youo see it at walmart and on tv. A thick paste so apply with a tooth pick and then use the uv light to harden it.
James
Click to expand...

UV glue, interesting, I am going to have to try!
 
JSteinman said:
jknaus said:
I feel your pain. I have a love hate relationship also. Get your self a good folding too as they really help. I use the Bug more than the full length one. Then solder is good especially if you are good at it. Crazy glue is good also. And I have been playing around some with the UV glue and that works not bad. Youo see it at walmart and on tv. A thick paste so apply with a tooth pick and then use the uv light to harden it.
James
Click to expand...

UV glue, interesting, I am going to have to try!
Click to expand...
This isnt the stuff I got but same idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkaHXJljP5Y
 
The UV stuff we use at the office is way too expensive for model use, I do have a spare UV curing light I can use though...
 
errains said:
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Click to expand...

OK, having laid hands on, I agree with Eric, this is nutty. I didn't think this through, we could have soldered some of the assembly before trying to attach to the barrel, I got single minded on getting those rail things on the barrel, the barrel was too thick and acted as a heat sink so we had to get it really hot to take the solder. BUT, once we did that we thought, what about the other side now. :smack

We had a good time, glad you guys came over, I'd still be head down in rigging if you hadn't :frantic
 
Here are some photos of a shelf queen that I worked on way back in 2011. This is from the Eduard Hannover CL.III.

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I think this was built before I actually joined MA. It was for a WW1 build on FSM if I remember correctly. My challenge on this was to build the PE cockpit as I had not ever worked with PE before. If any of you know this kit it is a bit of a pig. I ended up having to build a whole new top wing as it was warped and then I toasted it trying to straighten it. The wing I built actually looked a huge amount better.

Alas I got tired of fighting it and it became a shelf queen. There was a lot of good work done and I was even scratch building an engine for it. One of those kits I really need to go back and finish.
 
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