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Gulf War Bradley

Some more washing and added decals. I laid down some Alclad Aqua Clear for a base for the decals and then top coated them, hope I killed any silvering that might have showed.



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Added some Vallejo Flat Earth wash to get some more color


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Also did a moping of Iraqi Sand color, you know, flood the area with water then let some color flow in. Worked better up on the top of the turret I think. Tried dry brushing some of the green out of the rear, I don't think y'all will see any more shots from the back. :D
 
I like the variation of the colors, still think the panel lines and such will make a big difference. :soldier (y)
 
Never black, too stark. Dark brown, burnt sienna, burnt umber would be among my choices. The arteests in the group may have better suggestions. I'd seal the whole thing with Future or a satin clear before doing anything, makes the oils flow in the panel lines better and makes clean up of excess oil easier. You can flatten it when you're done B) :drinks
 
I dunno Mike, if he leaves it in flat, the oils will change the color of the flat panels as well and add some depth and fix his green problem. I agree NO BLACK too stark, and it will look like the thing drove through a oil spill...
 
My washes were always acrylics that were thinned with water and I added a drop in dishwashing soap to improve flow.

Tim
 
Yep, been using Acrylic so far.

If I use Oils won't the thinner attack the paint, talking about Humbrol thinner. If not Humbrol who would I use?
 
I've never done the enamel wash. It's always been an acrylic wash applied over a clear coat (usually a gloss coat) that way the wash can't affect the paint underneath.

Tim
 
I must have missed the painting stage - oh well you painted it with a solvent based paint - so just give it an acrylic based flat coat then you are good to go with solvent based weathering. I don't use acrylic based weathering, they just don't work as well as the solvent based. I saw MIG do a whole project with acrylics - once. That should tell you something...
 
I'm no Master who has any real skill measuring up to this level, but one idea is to use Mona Lisa Thinner with your oils. That's what I use. It's the most inert thinner out there and won't attack your basecoat, no matter what it is. I've done dozens of washes on numerous models using the Mona Lisa Thinner mixed with Windsor Newton Oils and never once had a paint issue. Give it a shot. A good sized bottle can be gotten at any local art supply store like Michael's or Aaron Brothers.
 
Freely admit to being a modelling dinosaur and I always use oils for my washes, never use Humbrol thinner as it's way too aggressive, refined turps from the art shop is perfect. And the guys are spot-on.... NOT black :facepalm


Ian.
 
JSteinman said:
I dunno Mike, if he leaves it in flat, the oils will change the color of the flat panels as well and add some depth and fix his green problem. I agree NO BLACK too stark, and it will look like the thing drove through a oil spill...
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You are so right, Dr John. My point about sealing it was to let the pin washes flow and also to allow a do over function in case the colors aren't what he wants. I filter with several colors, over flats they soak right in like I want them to.

I use Humbrol thinner on all my pin washes, have never had an issue, also really like AK's White Spirits too. I have only had bad experiences with turpentines (shiver!)
 
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