DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
Looks like they are packed for an desert excursion
Looks like they are packed for an desert excursion
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DAK with Doc - Next installment
- Thread starter JSteinman
- Start date
JSteinman
Master at Arms
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
Too much?
Looks like they are packed for an desert excursion
Too much?
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
Not at all.
Not at all.
Panzerspike
Member
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)http://www.mod
Hey John ,
The Stowage looks cool, what’s wrong with the
Jerry cans? Some neat stuff there , what stood out to me was no Tarps?Who makes that wicker neat looking stuff. And what about a couple ammo cans since the only weapons are the mg;s lots of 7.92 needed. But you get the thumbs up from me ( I like lt ).
Brian
Hey John ,
The Stowage looks cool, what’s wrong with the
Jerry cans? Some neat stuff there , what stood out to me was no Tarps?Who makes that wicker neat looking stuff. And what about a couple ammo cans since the only weapons are the mg;s lots of 7.92 needed. But you get the thumbs up from me ( I like lt ).
Brian
JSteinman
Master at Arms
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)http://www.mod
Just playing with layouts. I generally go through a few iterations before I am happy. I will add a tarp before I finalize and maybe an air recognition flag. I have some typical ammo cans, but I wonder how larger amounts were stored. Wicker is plus models.
Just playing with layouts. I generally go through a few iterations before I am happy. I will add a tarp before I finalize and maybe an air recognition flag. I have some typical ammo cans, but I wonder how larger amounts were stored. Wicker is plus models.
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)http://www.mod
Looks great John and I understand the multiple shifts on layout as I do the same - from my POV i would think a little less neat and a slight bit of movement and dissaray during the trek.
?
Great looking little scene with just the right balance.
Typical Stienman execution.
Ian.
Looks great John and I understand the multiple shifts on layout as I do the same - from my POV i would think a little less neat and a slight bit of movement and dissaray during the trek.
?
Great looking little scene with just the right balance.
Typical Stienman execution.
Ian.
JSteinman
Master at Arms
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
DML jerry cans suck because the pe part that gets sandwiched between the two halves to represent the weld seam was an afterthought. It dosesn't even fit the pins properly, is too large, is offset incorrectly, and when used makes the cans too wide for the handle to fit properly in the notch in the top of the cans. So to fix it, filing, sanding, filling the notches, more sanding, then trimming the handle to work without the notch. So a friggin' PITA.
DML jerry cans suck because the pe part that gets sandwiched between the two halves to represent the weld seam was an afterthought. It dosesn't even fit the pins properly, is too large, is offset incorrectly, and when used makes the cans too wide for the handle to fit properly in the notch in the top of the cans. So to fix it, filing, sanding, filling the notches, more sanding, then trimming the handle to work without the notch. So a friggin' PITA.
Sherman 18
Master at Arms
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
The load out looks good to me. I like the radio, broom, boots and pans.
The load out looks good to me.
I like the radio, broom, boots and pans.Panzerspike
Member
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
The load looks great John you have such nifty Do dads never thought of a broom but with all that sand would be very handy.OK I wish I was in my shop for this explanation I hate the metal Jerry can inserts I make all mine out of plastic sheet , I always buy new Tamiya ones no PE.I take a sheet of like paper plastic sheet I take my metal 1 ft rule it’s exacto Imeasure the whole can edges then with a with my mechanical pencil I make blocks a tiny bit bigger than the cans. I use a compass with two points and carefully from corner to corner I mark the measured pin & hole marks ( actually have one Tamiya can that I drilled through to mark the holes on the sheet with the compass points , I do every square for later use too.then cut the blocks you need with a sharp #11 drill the holes making sure you keep the cut to the inner side as not to close to the edges. Once the holes are right use Tamiya green cap and glue the cans together, then with a sharp #11 laying the plate flat against the can edges trim the outer surface to the can, then brush the Tamiya green along the cut sheet edges use extra make it melt the edges some .The glue melt makes the insert edges look welded kinda. That’s what I do never had a problem and seriously it goes much faster than you think I just wrote long , probably as fast as reading this.The Tamiya cans are very nice in my opinion and they have the Early X cans too and they are cheaper than the PE cans for your wallet plus lots o lots of Tamiya kits come with them already. Just wanted to run this out there in case anybody was interested.Also the end result is way better than the sharp PE edges , by slightly melting the edges they look more realistic in my opinion.Well Guess I have blabbered on long enough.
Brian
The load looks great John you have such nifty Do dads never thought of a broom but with all that sand would be very handy.OK I wish I was in my shop for this explanation I hate the metal Jerry can inserts I make all mine out of plastic sheet , I always buy new Tamiya ones no PE.I take a sheet of like paper plastic sheet I take my metal 1 ft rule it’s exacto Imeasure the whole can edges then with a with my mechanical pencil I make blocks a tiny bit bigger than the cans. I use a compass with two points and carefully from corner to corner I mark the measured pin & hole marks ( actually have one Tamiya can that I drilled through to mark the holes on the sheet with the compass points , I do every square for later use too.then cut the blocks you need with a sharp #11 drill the holes making sure you keep the cut to the inner side as not to close to the edges. Once the holes are right use Tamiya green cap and glue the cans together, then with a sharp #11 laying the plate flat against the can edges trim the outer surface to the can, then brush the Tamiya green along the cut sheet edges use extra make it melt the edges some .The glue melt makes the insert edges look welded kinda. That’s what I do never had a problem and seriously it goes much faster than you think I just wrote long , probably as fast as reading this.The Tamiya cans are very nice in my opinion and they have the Early X cans too and they are cheaper than the PE cans for your wallet plus lots o lots of Tamiya kits come with them already. Just wanted to run this out there in case anybody was interested.Also the end result is way better than the sharp PE edges , by slightly melting the edges they look more realistic in my opinion.Well Guess I have blabbered on long enough.
Brian
Panzerspike
Member
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
Oh John the radio is very cool , but with all that sand wouldn’t they have rolled a tarp around it? Making it actually impossible to see?Just my thought , Sorry you know me I overthink everything.
Brian
Oh John the radio is very cool , but with all that sand wouldn’t they have rolled a tarp around it? Making it actually impossible to see?Just my thought , Sorry you know me I overthink everything.
Brian
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
JSteinman
Master at Arms
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
Yep, but sometimes reality has to take a back seat to art...
As to the cans, yeah I have done that in the past, but these were here so...
Yep, but sometimes reality has to take a back seat to art...
As to the cans, yeah I have done that in the past, but these were here so...
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
Nice fiddlin'.
Nice fiddlin'.
DML Panzer 1 ausf. B ( DAK with Doc)
Pand you're going to paint that with all that installed?
Pand you're going to paint that with all that installed?