• Modelers Alliance has updated the forum software on our website. We have migrated all post, content and user accounts but we could not migrate the passwords.
    This requires that you manually reset your password.
    Please click here, http://modelersalliance.org/forums/login to go to logon page and use the "Forgot your Password" option.

1/48 Promodeler Bf 110 G-4

Paulw

Paulw

Well-known member
I am wanting to get something accomplished so the detail aspect of this build is going to be almost nil in the pit. You can spend a month of Sundays in that and still not have it come out ace.
obligatory time stamp.





working the pit just a bit but it is really too small for me to see anyway.





Painting ans PE are now extremely difficult for me in this scale so that's why no faces or side panels are done. I am going for the exterior paint scheme anyway.

got the wings on today and the tail surfaces also. I know the tail looks off but I assure you it isn't.



this gap under the wing is filled in with C/A and glazing putty by Bondo. That stuff is smooth in its application and sets quickly and is easy to sand.









Well I guess the tail is off a tad so its going to get repaired later.



more later
 
You'll get there Paul, keep at it. (y)

in the second start up pic, is that the scheme you are doing? looks very interesting.
 
Paul, great choice for an entry. :)

I have built one of these ProModeler 110's before and after looking at your in-progress pictures it looks like you found the worst parts of these kits.

One way to make get around the weird off center lower wing parts breakdown is to use a sharp X-acto knife and scribe very deeply the panel line that attaches the center section to the lower right wing (part #5) and bend the center section slightly upwards, this way there will be no unsightly gap when the wings are glued on plus the dihedral will be increased ever so slightly which this kit needs.

The other goof in these 110 kits is the rear stabilizer, what needs to be done is to dry fit and check which side of the mounting base for the stabilizer is too high and remove some of the plastic on that side, the opposite fuselage side is too low and will need to be built up and some thin plastic card makes this an easy job, doing what I just described will get the stabilizer level or so close to being level it will be hard to notice if its still off. IIRC the entire fuselage itself has a slight twist in it which makes it hard to get the stabilizer completely level.

The painting guide on the back of the instruction booklet for the camouflage for C9+IV of NJG 5 is a little off, the painting guide suggests the upper surfaces were painted in 74/75 gray colors in a really strange pattern, I have seen photographs of this machine and can safely say it was painted in just RLM 75 without a second color. One of the photographs of C9+IV was taken on a damp day and in that photograph it could be mistakenly thought to have been painted in two colors because of the upper surface being glossy and had light reflected on it in such a way to look like there were two shades of paint on it and I believe this same photograph was the one used by ProModeler for their painting instructions.

Matrixone
 
matrixone said:
Paul, great choice for an entry. :)
One way to make get around the weird off center lower wing parts breakdown is to use a sharp X-acto knife and scribe very deeply the panel line that attaches the center section to the lower right wing (part #5) and bend the center section slightly upwards, this way there will be no unsightly gap when the wings are glued on plus the dihedral will be increased ever so slightly which this kit needs.

Matrixone
Click to expand...

Just to add another way of dealing with the wing ( more options are a good thing). The way I did it was to join the two lower half pieces together first so you then have one lower wing piece like say a 109 or a spitfire kit. This way you will have no seam to deal with as you can get a nice join - leave it for a day or so to cure, then fit it up into the fuselage. Test the fit of the upper wing sections then and if necessary the dihedral need be can be dealt with by sanding down the top wing/ fuselage edges.

:popcorn
 
I am going to withdraw this build and go with something larger. I have been having more problems with my eyes and like a year ago my left eye has a detached retina and the spot I need to see to mask the 110s canopy just fuzes together and it looks like one big blob. I have a 24 scale 109 G-10 coming which I will not have as much problem with because less straining the eyes.

See y'all next week.
 
OK Paul, sorry to hear about your eye problems. Hope you're getting good treatment for them peepers. :zen
 
After pondering my situation I finally carved out enough tape to make a half @$$ masking on the canopy.
I came to realize what was not helping matters any was how faint some of the frame work was, try seeing it through my eyes and you will understand.



Anyway, success, so I am almost ready to hit the primer again and then paint.





Yep, going wheels up.



I know there are some things that need attention and there is still some sort of a list on the horizontal stab but at this point I don't care. I just want to accomplish something constructive.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top