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1/35 Tamiya PzKpfw IIc

RichB

Well-known member
Began working on this little guy this week during lunch at the office.

Start~2.jpg


Step 1 began with the running gear. The road wheels had a very light seam running around them. The drive sprockets had 4 light ejector marks on the back. The sprue attachment points are by the teeth, so careful cleanup is required. The outer rim of the idler wheel takes some care to remove from the sprue so it isn't bent or twisted. The road and idler wheels received poly caps during assembly. While I was doing these wheels I also cleaned up the return rollers.

RoadWheels.jpg


Step 2 moves to the lower hull, adding the rounded nose and suspension. Take care here as the spring assemblies are handed and the rear most assembly has the springs at a slightly different angle. The drive housing also received a poly cap when it is installed. Only the rear hull plate was added from Step 3. The remainder of that step was installing the parts assembled in Step 1.

LwrHull.jpg


Step 4 deals with the installation of the link and length track which I will do later in the build.

Step 5 sees work begin on the upper hull, drilling some mounting holes from the underside, adding the side air intake and a filler for the sponson. I filled some ejector marks on the underside of the track guard in case they are visible.

UprHull1.jpg

UprHull2.jpg


In Step 6, some panels, splash guards and the rear track guards are added to the hull superstructure. A little bit of filler was used along some of the panel joints. The joint line for the rear track guards needs to be filled as its not a natural join line. The right side is easy as it is a flat panel. The left side runs thru the raised diamond pattern so is much trickier.

UprHull4.jpg

UprHull3.jpg


Cheers,
Rich
 
This is a very nice kit, builds up quickly.

Step 7 adds the rear engine and radio operator's hatches, glacis plate and drivers, hatch, vision ports, fender supports to the upper hull. The hatched have interior latch details, so if you happen to have a Pz II interior they could be opened. The lower hull gets some tow hooks and a tow rope added. I cut the transmission hatch free from the one part tow rope/hatch piece. I scratch built a new tope that looks more three dimensional.

UprHull5.jpg


UprHull6.jpg


Tow.jpg


LwrHull2.jpg


Step 8 builds up some upper hull tools, a 4 piece jack, headlights with blackout covers, 2 part tool box, 3 part tow hook, muffler and antenna trough. The muffler requires the most work with filler required along its seams and where both end fittings attach.

Tools.jpg


Cheers,
Rich
 
Plugging away slowly. Step 9 sees the rear hull plate and fenders being fitted out. An included PE fret has the perforated cover for the muffler (actually two different styles) and three rhomboid number plates. It is made from steel so will likely require some annealing to roll into shape. It has tabs and the hull has slots so should make it easier to secure. Take care adding the lifting hooks to the hull (and later the turret) as there are no spares supplied for a sacrifice to the carpet monster.

RearHull.jpg


PE.jpg


Step 10 adds tools to the front fenders. I added some wire to represent the headlight conduits. In both of these steps I was selective in tool addition, leaving most off until after main painting.

Step 11 assembles the commander's chair and adds inner details to his hatches. I'm building this buttoned up, so can skip this.

Steps 12 thru 14 sees assembly of the turret beginning with the gun mantlet. There is a poly cap in this assembly that allows the guns to be elevated. Next was assembly of the turret itself and addition of the guns. The final step is the addition of the hatches and vision ports.

Turret1.jpg


Terret2.jpg


Turret3.jpg


Nearly ready for the paint shop.

Cheers,
Rich
 
It hasn't put up much of a fight like some kits do.

I went back to Step 9 and rolled the perforated cover for the muffler. I didn't have to anneal it and was able to roll it using the shaft a screw driver (just a little smaller diameter than the muffler) pressed against my thigh. The tabs on the PE and slots in the rear hull made it easy to get it into position.

Step 15 finishes the build, adding the turret and rhomboid number plate to the rear deck.

Assy1.jpg


Assy2.jpg


The last thing assembled were the link and length tracks from Step 4. The curved end pieces were glued into shape around the drive sprocket and idler wheel. The two long pieces in front are the single piece top runs that will rest on the return rollers.

Tracks.jpg


With that, it's ready for the paint shop and a primer coat, hopefully in the next couple of days.

Cheers,
Rich
 
I used Krylon ColorMaster Primer. It comes in Red Oxide, Black, White and 2 shades of Grey.

Cheers,
Rich
 
With apologies to AC/DC, we're back in Dunkelgrau. Broke out the airbrush & paint tonight. Mixed a faded Dunkelgrau from Tamiya XF-63 German Grey & carefully measured "some" XF-15 Flesh, thinned with a touch of isopropyl alcohol. I'll let this set-up for a day or so and then apply the one third Dunkelbraun cloud pattern that was in effect during the Polish campaign. The Tamiya instructions don't give any hints for this scheme, so its off to the reference library.

Grey1.jpg


Grey2.jpg


Cheers,
Rich
 
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