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chipping

paddy

paddy

Well-known member
In the past i built some armour and used MIG paints. One good thing about these was the chipping effect using their chipping potion :) My question is does chipping need a water based paint ? I tried it recently with MIG chipping fluid over sprayed with MRP paint and it didnt work, i guess because the MRP is solvent based so water runs off it ?
 
I think i found the answer. Basically it will work as normal but it takes longer for the water to penetrate the MRP paints

This from the web


Can I use chipping fluid/hairspray with MRPs and how to do chipping with MRPs are two very often asked questions here, therefore I'll try to demonstrate how I approach this technique in a few easy steps:
  1. Apply primer to your model (in my case 1:1 mix of MRP-84 Fine Surface Primer Grey + MRP-85 Fine Surface Primer Black). If necessary, sand it down and polish it, re-spray again, polish it again. It will greatly improve the final finish.
  2. Apply MRP-170 Fine Surface Primer Silver Metallic - it is a metallic primer that is suitable as a base under metallic paints. It can be sanded and polished. If you need to achieve high sheen, overspray it with a coat of lacquer gloss varnish (MRP-048) or simply mix those two together in 1:1 ratio for final coat. It wasn't necessary here as the chipped bare metal is rarely super shiny.
  3. Spray your metallic paint base colour. I prefer MRP-3 Super Silver. The colour difference between the metallic primer and Super Silver might not be immediatelly apparent here, but Super Silver has much finer grain and it is has a lighter shade.
  4. Apply chipping fluid or hairspray with an airbrush. I use AMMO Heavy Chipping Fluid thinned with tap water (2:1). I would normally apply 2-3 light coats, letting every one of them to dry completely.
  5. Cover the metallic paint with a mist coat of a primer or a grey colour of similar shade - this step is optional, I do it because in my experience, the difference between light metallic and dark primer (for many black) can effect the paint colour. There's no need to apply a 100% opaque layer, but 50-70-ish coverage is ok.
  6. Paint your base paints, marble coats, pre- and postshading - whatever you normally do. You can even use oils for modulation etc.
  7. Start chipping - now, MRPs if applied correctly have a semi-gloss finish and are relatively impervious to water. Those two properties will make chipping for you a bit more laborous but once it goes, it's very easy. Firstly, due to the glossy surface - water will bead into droplets. Secondly, it needs more time to penetrate the paint layers to reach the chipping fluid and re-activate it.

    There are several ways how to solve this - I simply use wide Windsor & Newton Cotman 667 Nr. 10 brush and generously apply the water over the surface of the model. Just keep going back and forth with the brush. After a minute or two, the water will have enough time to gradually soften the paint and you can start chipping.

    Tools I use are - sharp tooth pick, sewing needle in an Exacto handle, old 0,3mm airbrush needle and a glass-fibre pen.

    Gently scratch the surface of the paint and re-apply water. This will allow the water to penetrate even faster. Start with larger chips using the toothpick and the brush, use sewing needle for chips around the rivets and airbrush needle for fine scratches. I often use needles at a 45 degree angle to the surface for bigger scratches along the panel lines and at almost at 90 degrees the surface for finer ones. Small dents are done with jumping with the tip of the needle over the surface in a random fashion.

    Re-apply water from time to time. You will feel when the chipping fluid and paint will be drier, the paint will be harder to scratch and it may also start to flake off.

    Lastly, use extended fibers of the glass-fiber pen to scratch the metallic paint. Lightly brush it over it, it will reveal the underlying darker metallic primer and will simulate scratches into the metal. Don't worry about scraching through the metallic primer - if you use dark grey primer as I do, it will just look as a deeper scratches to duraluminum. No issues.
  8. Apply wash, seal with varnish etc.
 
Barney said:
No golf jokes, please.
Click to expand...
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