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GWH SU27 Finished
- Thread starter paddy
- Start date
Lion Roar and SWS are related companies?
No, sWS refers to the late war German towing vehicle; Schwerer Wehrmachtschlepper.
SWS is Super Wing Series owned by Volks of Japan.
Can't argue with that as they never did have the best instructions. Barrels didn't come with any, even when multi-part.
Rhino
Super Moderator
I contend the the Chinese write misleading/confusing instructions on purpose, translations aside and include optional parts to bamboozle modelers. I believe they spend a great deal of time laughing at our discomfiture and ignoring complaints, knowing full well we will buy the next new kit with the same vague instructions for astronomical prices in spite of it.
Chime in here anytime Dragon Armor modelers. Remember the Trumpeter 1/35 KV-1 with the "quick-fried" turret?
The rub is they make so many sought-after model kits of late. The quality and detail is reputed to be really impressive. Like the jig Meng incudes for their pretty good tracks. That sounds amazing.
You are doing your usual fine job of model making on this huge Jet!
Chime in here anytime Dragon Armor modelers. Remember the Trumpeter 1/35 KV-1 with the "quick-fried" turret?
The rub is they make so many sought-after model kits of late. The quality and detail is reputed to be really impressive. Like the jig Meng incudes for their pretty good tracks. That sounds amazing.
You are doing your usual fine job of model making on this huge Jet!
paddy
Well-known member
Plan ahead
If you assemble like this
How am i going to paint that engine cover without spraying the grey undercarriage bay and parts ?
So paint it first. At least round the parts you cant get to before
. Might seem obvious to most but i am used to assembling masking and painting and thats not going to work here.
If you assemble like this
How am i going to paint that engine cover without spraying the grey undercarriage bay and parts ?
So paint it first. At least round the parts you cant get to before
. Might seem obvious to most but i am used to assembling masking and painting and thats not going to work here.
chrispisme
Well-known member
First off, you’re doing a fantastic job on this kit, even with crap instructions. And it’s a great subject! And that’s kinda why I am adding my 0.02c, I built the trumpeter 1/32 version of this model (we play tennis on it in better weather) I “tacked” the gear covers on the model to paint the bottom of the model thinking I’d be able to remove the covers later…nope. So I made a stand added some pilots and made ‘er an in flight display. You’re idea for painting/building would’ve been a better one on my project. I’ll have to keep it in mind for later projects I think
Thanks to you, and some leftover shark Su-27 decals, I have been eyeing the kit and saw this video, lots of tips for the build:
paddy
Well-known member
Yes he seems to go for the build then mask which is what i was trying to avoid above, he also seems to have bought masks and after market cockpit etc.
We shall see if masks is a better route than the decals later
It is quite possible the decals will beat me, just depends if they fold up on themselves or are to thick or fall to pieces or just will not sit down.
We shall see if masks is a better route than the decals later
It is quite possible the decals will beat me, just depends if they fold up on themselves or are to thick or fall to pieces or just will not sit down.
Only aftermarket are the Foxbot decals which came with the digital masks, and Quinta Studios (from Russia) cockpit 3D transfers.
paddy
Well-known member
Although no mention is made of this in the instructions you get two canopies, a on4e piece ad a build up option
Engine nasals are now on with slats and flaps, its quite a simple kit ojnce you have worked out the painting TBH
Instructions do say slats and flaps are both dropped when parked.
Engine nasals are now on with slats and flaps, its quite a simple kit ojnce you have worked out the painting TBH
Instructions do say slats and flaps are both dropped when parked.
I really like the canopy frame part. Looks great. 
paddy
Well-known member
Work is very slow here. That said, its not a race its all about the paint. Gone are days where i blasted a Harrier with one coat of Tamiya. Now I'm looking at 10 coats , 5 each of primer and top coat. its boring but the paint finish is a bit special. I have learned that paint is not just paint
Only draw back so far is this stuff doesnt brush, its thinner than water and so is its pigment. This means if you want to touch up a chip or missed part you are going to have a the airbrush out
In short i have had to re think my methods and trusted build order and up my game several levels.
On a different subject i came a cross these this week. CA glue is good until the nozzle bungs up and you either have to cut it off leaving an ever enlarged hole or throw it away as the lid is welded solid to the bottle. With these really fine tips you dont actually need a lid as the hole in the tip is so fine the bottle can draw the fluid in the nozzle back down as you stop squeezing. Great for accurate pin point application as well. these will pay for themselves in saved half bottles of CA.
aerials ? on fins and wing tips etc are so fine they are destroyed with handling so they will be drilled out and replaced with .004" piano wire ( i hope if i can drill the trailing edges without slipping off)
its all about the paint. Gone are days where i blasted a Harrier with one coat of Tamiya. Now I'm looking at 10 coats , 5 each of primer and top coat. its boring but the paint finish is a bit special. I have learned that paint is not just paint Only draw back so far is this stuff doesnt brush, its thinner than water and so is its pigment. This means if you want to touch up a chip or missed part you are going to have a the airbrush out
In short i have had to re think my methods and trusted build order and up my game several levels.
On a different subject i came a cross these this week. CA glue is good until the nozzle bungs up and you either have to cut it off leaving an ever enlarged hole or throw it away as the lid is welded solid to the bottle. With these really fine tips you dont actually need a lid as the hole in the tip is so fine the bottle can draw the fluid in the nozzle back down as you stop squeezing. Great for accurate pin point application as well. these will pay for themselves in saved half bottles of CA.
aerials ? on fins and wing tips etc are so fine they are destroyed with handling so they will be drilled out and replaced with .004" piano wire ( i hope if i can drill the trailing edges without slipping off)
Anti-static wicks with MiG and Sukhoi having a slightly different end shape.
Master makes a crazily accurate set of 14 in 1/48th scale from turned brass.
Well, I have them for the MiG and can tell you they are that small!thanks for that
the bits that break off are much smaller than those.
Its the third one down thats the problem and these are also on the wings These are way to small to reproduce in brass, maybe about 5 thou of an inch
Instructions:
What I JUST found out is that Orange Hobby of China also makes them but Master seems more accurate:
By the way, I am not insisting anyone gets them but simply stating they exist.
chrispisme
Well-known member
Thread robbing (briefly) those static wicks would look awesome on a 1/48 CP-140
Great work on the Su mate!
going to make a dio. of it buzzing a reaper?