• Modelers Alliance has updated the forum software on our website. We have migrated all post, content and user accounts but we could not migrate the passwords.
    This requires that you manually reset your password.
    Please click here, http://modelersalliance.org/forums/login to go to logon page and use the "Forgot your Password" option.

Chips with everything

paddy

Well-known member
chips with everything :popcorn :laugh:

maskol5.jpg


Take model part..Spray silver a put a few drops of Humbrol maskol on (its a liquid rubber)
maskol2.jpg



Dab it about a bit with a small bit of sponge.
maskol4.jpg


spray the whole lot black
maskol6.jpg


once dry just rub the whole thing with your finger and the rubber will roll off ( yes its upside down :)
maskol1.jpg


You could then add a flat coat to blend the whole thing in and give the chipped areas a more old look as i did on my valve covers on the Spit. I used a semi gloss clear coat on the prop.
DSC_6510.jpg


For armour you might be better to use salt
Spray your item silver and before it dries add a little salt
Salt1.jpg

Salt4.jpg


Spray you top coat, in this case green
Salt2.jpg


And when dry rub it with a non scratch scouring pad
Salt3.jpg


This gives a texture finish but if you add the salt once the base coat is dry it doesn't give the texture and is easier to rub off. that said if you dont want a texture then usae maskol. the advantage of salt is you can sprinkle it over a large area quite randomly.... Just make sure your first top coat is light ( mist it on ) so you dont blow the salt off with the air brush
This is just a principle. you could make your base coat Copper for pipes or red rust, maybe a chrome silver, add maskol then a flat top coat which gives the silver flat dope finish peeling from the NMF on my spit to show chrome silver areas underneath along edges like this
Untitled.jpg
.

Lots of fun experimenting :)
Marskol can be applied much more specifically with a fine brush to give a chipped effect along edges like canopy slides and frames. just make sure your chipping is in a suitable scale :)
 
Thanks Paddy :notworthy

Just beware Humbrol Maskoll has amonia in it and cant be used on or with Acrilic paints - dont ask me how I know :blush:
 
All those test strips in the pictures above were done with tamiya acrylics ? I have used maskol for years and i only use Tamiya paints ???
 
Thanks Paddy :notworthy

Just beware Humbrol Maskoll has amonia in it and cant be used on or with Acrilic paints - dont ask me how I know :blush:

Makes me curious...DO tell us oh savage one. ;) [maybe we can help you out if we know what happened]

Greetings,Ron.
 
I used maskol once with valeyo paint and lets just say the amonia inside it made all the paint underneath peel off. The top layer did not even dry totaly from the amonia and so when I picked it up I had some nice bare undercoat areas.
 
I used maskol once with valeyo paint and lets just say the amonia inside it made all the paint underneath peel off. The top layer did not even dry totaly from the amonia and so when I picked it up I had some nice bare undercoat areas.

:hmmm So I guess the maskol method doesn't work on Vallejo paint...maybe it could have worked if you protected the paint job by using a gloss coat on it [future or Tamiya gloss coat]?

Paddy uses Tamiya paint,which is not a 100% acrylic paint like other acrylic paints[you can use lacquer thinner on tamiya acrylics,I doubt you can do that with other acrylics for sure]

So you might give Paddy's method a try,Dave. :)

Greetings,Ron.
 
So remember to put a Enamel seal coat over an acrylic base.

Really good stuff Paddy, thanks again :mpup
 
So remember to put a Enamel seal coat over an acrylic base.

Really good stuff Paddy, thanks again :mpup
I agree 100% with MP thanks paddy. Plus I learned something new Tamiya acrilcs is not afected by Maskol thats great news as maskol is the cheapest masking paint I can get here (y)
 
Glad its of use to someone. Strange thing is Dave i did those test strips in the pictures for MP that morning within an hour so all those coats of silver, black, green and clear had less than 15 mins between coats so its not like the paint had a week to go off.Between starting to cut some plastic card and posting the article was under 2 hours. I checked the strips just now and they are hard as nails so Tamiya is your answer , particularly the sprays if you can get them. I notice you need humbrol thinners to clean the maskol brush as Tamiya thinners will not touch it which might explain the lack of reaction with Tamiya on maskol

Cheers for the input :)
Paddy
 
Back
Top