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Lesson Five. Basic Drybrush Part 2

bob letterman

Master at Arms
Staff member
Well, after fouling up the paint number of the olive drab, I'll start the fifth lesson. After the initial dry brush tutorial, I normally begin attaching details after they are also painted and weathered using the same wash system. After I have most of it glued in place, then I do a touch up with the matt 72 Khaki drill and the matt 155 olive drab. Just so you know, this is what it should look like and not the blue grey hue Bill and James were getting.

AS nobody else is weathering a Diamond T, I will relate how some of these details were done as we go down the files.

The winch wire was made from twisted solder wire and then dry brushed with the 270003 polished steel, then buffed.

Frnt.jpg


The resin tanks were replaced with tanks from the Italeri Tool set. Archer dry transfers for the stenciled data. More twisted solder wire for the two crane wire. In the bed, I added a set of acetylene tanks on a cart with gauges. The hoses will be added later.

LFnocab.jpg


Here is an overall shot from above to show the additional dry brushing that was done after details were attached. I will give those areas another pin wash later.

cab.jpg


The left side of the truck. The wheels and tires will receive some splashes of dried muddy water in the next lesson.

Leftside.jpg


Here is a shot of the truck from an above angle. Note the dry brushing in the panels on the side of the bed. These will also get some pin washing later as well.

cab-1.jpg


Here is detail of the .50 cal. I left the ammo box open to show detail of the brass jackets and copper heads of the rounds.

MG.jpg


Detail of the crane assembly was dry brushed with both the OD plus khaki drill mixture and the 270003 polished steel. The metallic color should be used very sparingly as it is very easily over done.

Crane-1.jpg


The right front showing details of the additional dry brushing.

RF.jpg


The right side.

Rtside.jpg


The bed.

Bed.jpg


And, more detail of the crane assembly.

Crane-1.jpg


Still have quite a few more details to add, plus all the rigging for the two cranes. As you may have noticed, I like to contrast the heavily weathered, the slightly weathered and the new equipment on a busy vehicle such as this. IMO, it creates a more realistic look. Random is a difficult thing to model, as we humans are prone to uniformity and symmetry, but live in a world where everything around us is spontaneous and random. I always attempt to create that random appearance.

As most of you are doing Shermans, I have a Jumbo that has been washed and I will include that in the final dry brushing chapter before we go into dirt, mud, scratches and chipping in the final 3 series, 203.

Bob
 
Re: 201. Lesson One. Basic Drybrush Part 2

Man that is already looking awesome. What did you use to get the copper and brass on the shells (I've always found these paints to be lumpy looking) and what did you paint the chain with?
 
Re: 201. Lesson One. Basic Drybrush Part 2

That looks fantastic Bob! I would like to think that I'm getting a better understanding of this. It's nice to see it all come together. I'm anxious to get to the next round of drybrushing.
Thanks for showing all this. :notworthy

OD rules! (y)

Bill
 
Re: 201. Lesson One. Basic Drybrush Part 2

Man that is already looking awesome. What did you use to get the copper and brass on the shells (I've always found these paints to be lumpy looking) and what did you paint the chain with?

Thanks, except for the hobby paint, Humbrol, Vallejo, Polly-S and Testors, I get everything else from art stores. A brand called "Liquid Leaf" markets a line of metallic colors, Brass, copper, gold, antique gold, silver, pewter, and so on. They have a much finer pigment than the hobby paint metallics and have a more natural appearance. I do use the Testors silver and the Humbrol buffable metallics, it all depends of what I am painting. I used the Liquid Leaf for the ammo.

Bob
 
OK, I am declaring the Diamond T finished. I will start lesson six, the last dry brushing lesson, with a Jumbo Sherman that was built but not painted back in 1985, carried around all these years and I decided to use it in the diorama after updating and redoing it. This is an old Verlinden resin conversion on a Tamiya hull.

See;

www.modelersalliance.com/forum/bob-lette...011?limit=8&start=40

It has been base coated, washed, using the same system, and only some stippling of mud on the hull. I will begin dry brushing it in the next lesson. Here are three pics.

JUMBOLS.jpg


JUMBORF.jpg


JUMBOLF.jpg


Now, here are the final shots of the Diamond T.

I have added all the details, did a bit of dry brushing and pin washing where needed, and generally touched up anywhere needed. I am happy with the results. This was a bear to build and required a lot of scratchbuilding.

RearF-1.jpg


leftF.jpg


LFF.jpg


LRF.jpg


MGF.jpg


RBEDF.jpg


RearF-1.jpg


RSF.jpg


RTFF.jpg


RTREARF.jpg


RightF.jpg


For comparison, here is what it looked like when we started. Note the total change in color created by the weathering process.

RightF.jpg


Now, I set it in the diorama and photographed it just to see how it will look.

T2cm.jpg


TMERC.jpg


TM-32-1.jpg


I always model for the camera. I like my models to look real when photographed. If it looks real when I see the first photographs, then I am happy, they don't necessarily have to look pretty. Using that criteria, I think I accomplished that. Tell me what you think.

That last pic doesn't have any fancy special lighting, it is only the little windows of the garage door shining through.

I should get another lesson ready by monday. I'm gonna try to get some work done on the Ferrari and Kramer builds over the weekend.

Bob
 
Hi Bob.
It looks fantastic. Thanks for demonstrating your techniques on a complicated model. Your choice of the wrecker was a good one because it had more detail than say a Sherman. That gave us more opportunities to see how you handled weathering all the nooks and crannies. It is nice to see the end result and where we should be aiming. It helps with the process. Thanks again for putting forth all the effort.

Cheers,

Bill
 
Really SUPERB work,Bob! (y)

I got nothing in my stash at the moment to do a olive drab vehicle,but when I have one,I just NEED to give this a try!This might be 'old school' but the results are absolutely fantastic in my eyes.

Greetings,Ron.
 
I've been doing my homework, haven't had a chance to check this out yet, Wow! what a great finish.

Do you go through this process on all the OD pieces in your dios?
 
The wrecker looks great!!! (y) :notworthy

B)

Thanks Terry!

Hi Bob.
It looks fantastic. Thanks for demonstrating your techniques on a complicated model. Your choice of the wrecker was a good one because it had more detail than say a Sherman. That gave us more opportunities to see how you handled weathering all the nooks and crannies. It is nice to see the end result and where we should be aiming. It helps with the process. Thanks again for putting forth all the effort.

Cheers,

Bill

Thanks Bill,

I will continue on with some more lessons. The truck is unique and most all of you are doing armor, so, I'll move to a Sherman for upcoming lessons. I want to cover scratches, paint chipping, a metalizing of sorts and a few other tricks.

Bob

Really SUPERB work,Bob! (y)

I got nothing in my stash at the moment to do a olive drab vehicle,but when I have one,I just NEED to give this a try!This might be 'old school' but the results are absolutely fantastic in my eyes.

Greetings,Ron.

Thanks Ron,

Well, I guess this will be posted here for quite awhile, so, no rush!

Bob

I've been doing my homework, haven't had a chance to check this out yet, Wow! what a great finish.

Do you go through this process on all the OD pieces in your dios?

Thanks, I thought it turned out like I hoped it would.

In the last 40 years, I'd guess that I have used this same technique or similar on more than a hundred OD vehicles. I also use it, (Different Humbrol colors), on all vehicles, German gray, German Yellow, Russian Green and camo. The camo vehicles have a somewhat different method of application. I'll try to give some base colors and the corresponding Humbrol colors to weather them with. BTW, The oil paint remains the same throughout, Raw umber. It is the color of nature. Have you ever noticed that new concrete has alight gray appearance after drying? Then it turns a khaki color after a year or two. You can take a light gray painted tarmac, wash it with raw umber and rectified turps, and you'll have the perfect color for concrete, same for a street, sidewalk, stone building, highway or anything made from gray stone or concrete.

Actually, all my dioramas are totally washed with this same mixture. When every building, vehicle, and accessories are all washed like this, the dio takes on a very realistic appearance. If one item isn't, it really sticks out. I even wash static grass after it;s been applied and dry. I don't wash figures, however, I do use that color to "weather" clothing now and then.

Bob
 
Nobody mentioned the .50 cal. machine gun barrel. I was sure someone would. It is an aircraft barrel. I have seen a few photos from both the ETO and the PTO with vehicles, and tanks, using them. The Brits used them in north Africa to an extent I have heard. No idea why, but just thought I would use one and see if anybody noticed. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Bob
 
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