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WDS' M4A3 (105mm) HVSS Sherman
- Thread starter bob letterman
- Start date
wds
Active member
Re: My Project.
DML Sherman M4A3 (105mm) HVSS, kit no. 6354
I finished the construction of this one last month when I should have been painting some other projects already in the works. I just don’t feel like airbrushing in a cold garage. So… good timing for this one. I’m looking forward to learning at the elbow of the master. Question: Are the Humbrol paints that you recommend acrylics?
Thanks for putting this together Bob!
Bill
DML Sherman M4A3 (105mm) HVSS, kit no. 6354
I finished the construction of this one last month when I should have been painting some other projects already in the works. I just don’t feel like airbrushing in a cold garage. So… good timing for this one. I’m looking forward to learning at the elbow of the master. Question: Are the Humbrol paints that you recommend acrylics?
Thanks for putting this together Bob!
Bill
Re: My Project.
Thanks Bill,
Humbrol paints that I recommend are enamels. The way I do it, acrylics will not work in weathering. However, If you have yet to paint the sherman, the best bet for you is to give it a base coat of acrylic olive drab. That way the enamel solvents we are going to use for weathering won't attack it as aggressively.
I usually base coat in enamels and then i have to wait for weeks for the base coat to harden before I begin the weathering process.
Bob
DML Sherman M4A3 (105mm) HVSS, kit no. 6354
I finished the construction of this one last month when I should have been painting some other projects already in the works. I just don’t feel like airbrushing in a cold garage. So… good timing for this one. I’m looking forward to learning at the elbow of the master. Question: Are the Humbrol paints that you recommend acrylics?
Thanks for putting this together Bob!
Bill
Thanks Bill,
Humbrol paints that I recommend are enamels. The way I do it, acrylics will not work in weathering. However, If you have yet to paint the sherman, the best bet for you is to give it a base coat of acrylic olive drab. That way the enamel solvents we are going to use for weathering won't attack it as aggressively.
I usually base coat in enamels and then i have to wait for weeks for the base coat to harden before I begin the weathering process.
Bob
wds
Active member
Re: My Project.
Thanks Bob. That's what I figured. I have a small collection of Testors enamels (in the small square bottle) and Testor's Model Master series in the larger round bottle, but I have no brand loyalty at this point. If you recommend the Humbrol enamel, I'll go that way. I did a google search and kept coming up with the Humbrol in tins (with the lift-up paint lid) in Acrylic, so hence my noobie question.
Thanks again for leading this campaign,
Bill
Thanks Bob. That's what I figured. I have a small collection of Testors enamels (in the small square bottle) and Testor's Model Master series in the larger round bottle, but I have no brand loyalty at this point. If you recommend the Humbrol enamel, I'll go that way. I did a google search and kept coming up with the Humbrol in tins (with the lift-up paint lid) in Acrylic, so hence my noobie question.
Thanks again for leading this campaign,
Bill
Re: My Project.
One thing Bill,
I think this needs to be said. Just so everybody understands. I have no brand loyalty whatsoever. Humbrol works with my system and nothing else does. Humbrol has the unique quality of being thicker than any other model paint on the market. As we get into the weathering process, you will see what is different about that brand. I have tried every brand of paint out there. The only one that was close was Pactra. Not quite as good, but it would work. Unfortunately, Testors bought them out years ago and quickly discontinued them.
I don't even know anybody who works for Humbrol which is manufactured in England. Their older formula, back in the 80s, was even better than their current formula. All I know is that it works for me, and if somebody follows my system, it may not make them a master modeler, but it will make them confident when they begin weathering their next painstakingly difficult model to build. Once you know this and have it down pat, you can then venture forth with confidence and begin experimenting and expand your horizons. All I want to do is open some doors for some of the guys who are having problems with weathering. I will only get some satisfaction of helping others as others have helped me along the way.
If you have problems locating a dealer for Humbrol enamels, check this link.
https://www.modelersalliance.com/forum/weathering-olive-drab/97563-weathering-olive-drab-ww-ii-interactive?limit=8&start=8
Bob
One thing Bill,
I think this needs to be said. Just so everybody understands. I have no brand loyalty whatsoever. Humbrol works with my system and nothing else does. Humbrol has the unique quality of being thicker than any other model paint on the market. As we get into the weathering process, you will see what is different about that brand. I have tried every brand of paint out there. The only one that was close was Pactra. Not quite as good, but it would work. Unfortunately, Testors bought them out years ago and quickly discontinued them.
I don't even know anybody who works for Humbrol which is manufactured in England. Their older formula, back in the 80s, was even better than their current formula. All I know is that it works for me, and if somebody follows my system, it may not make them a master modeler, but it will make them confident when they begin weathering their next painstakingly difficult model to build. Once you know this and have it down pat, you can then venture forth with confidence and begin experimenting and expand your horizons. All I want to do is open some doors for some of the guys who are having problems with weathering. I will only get some satisfaction of helping others as others have helped me along the way.
If you have problems locating a dealer for Humbrol enamels, check this link.
https://www.modelersalliance.com/forum/weathering-olive-drab/97563-weathering-olive-drab-ww-ii-interactive?limit=8&start=8
Bob
wds
Active member
Re: My Project.
Thanks for the addendum Bob. I guess “brand loyalty” was the wrong choice of words on my part. I understand that you get the results that you want from this product and that you are sharing your experience with us. We are all benefiting from your vast base of knowlege, and I am happy to not have to “try on” everything in the store.
I ordered up my enamels from Chris Merseal this morning via e-mail. He responded instantly, we did the deal with paypal, and the paint is on its way. Nice!
I sprayed some Tamiya dark green on the Sherman to act as the dark basecoat for the OD. “Boogies on a stick” - so I can get the color into all those nooks and crannies.
Question: Did you want us to provide a medium shade (vague and arbitrary I know) monochrome OD green (So that we can fade the paint via the weathering process), or should/can we color modulate to a series of lighter shades as is popular these days? Sorry to be jumping the gun. I should probably just sit in my seat, keep my mouth shut and wait for your direction in good time. But I cant help myself.
Thanks ,
Bill
Thanks for the addendum Bob. I guess “brand loyalty” was the wrong choice of words on my part. I understand that you get the results that you want from this product and that you are sharing your experience with us. We are all benefiting from your vast base of knowlege, and I am happy to not have to “try on” everything in the store.
I ordered up my enamels from Chris Merseal this morning via e-mail. He responded instantly, we did the deal with paypal, and the paint is on its way. Nice!
I sprayed some Tamiya dark green on the Sherman to act as the dark basecoat for the OD. “Boogies on a stick” - so I can get the color into all those nooks and crannies.
Question: Did you want us to provide a medium shade (vague and arbitrary I know) monochrome OD green (So that we can fade the paint via the weathering process), or should/can we color modulate to a series of lighter shades as is popular these days? Sorry to be jumping the gun. I should probably just sit in my seat, keep my mouth shut and wait for your direction in good time. But I cant help myself.
Thanks ,
Bill
Re: My Project.
Hey Bill,
The truth is, every brand of hobby paint made is a different quality, different formula, different texture. If I was giving a tutorial on airbrushing, I would not recommend Humbrol. It would work, but there are others that, imho, are better than that for airbrushing.
The primary and most important materials in the class is Raw umber oil paint and rectified turpentine. On that, there are no substitutions. That is where we will start. If you use those materials and follow my directions closely, you will have a weathering job that is subtle, totally flat and can almost be used as is after that. The humbrols are for drybrushing and detailing which come later in the tutorial.
I stopped competing in 1984, but once I applied this wash to an 88 gun and did nothing else as far as weathering and it won a first place at an IPMS national convention. It is a very effective weathering process that seems to have been lost among all the filters and pigments, salt finishes and on and on. Don't misunderstand, those are great systems, but as I keep saying, you have to walk before you run.
I know there are some that would like to be in this build, but don't want to put forth the time and expense of acquiring these materials. Without the two absolutes, I would suggest you just watch and if there are good results, you can always buy the needed materials later.
I have tried Testors, Pactra, Floquil, Polly S, Andrea, Vallejo, Tamiya and many others over the years. I have never been able to dry brush with them and obtain a subtle finish. Somehow, they always seem to streak or look overdone. There is nothing more obvious than a drybrushing job that isn't subtle. It just sticks out like a sore thumb. You can say the same for a wash. If you get drybrushing down pat, it will look as if it were airbrushed that way.
The color of the tank in the pic you posted looks fine to me. As we go through this, it will change colors a couple of times. I have never worried over base coats as the weathering process will change it dramatically and you will have choices to lighten, darken or even change the tone. Hope this helps!
Bob
Thanks for the addendum Bob. I guess “brand loyalty” was the wrong choice of words on my part. I understand that you get the results that you want from this product and that you are sharing your experience with us. We are all benefiting from your vast base of knowlege, and I am happy to not have to “try on” everything in the store.
I ordered up my enamels from Chris Merseal this morning via e-mail. He responded instantly, we did the deal with paypal, and the paint is on its way. Nice!
I sprayed some Tamiya dark green on the Sherman to act as the dark basecoat for the OD. “Boogies on a stick” - so I can get the color into all those nooks and crannies.
Question: Did you want us to provide a medium shade (vague and arbitrary I know) monochrome OD green (So that we can fade the paint via the weathering process), or should/can we color modulate to a series of lighter shades as is popular these days? Sorry to be jumping the gun. I should probably just sit in my seat, keep my mouth shut and wait for your direction in good time. But I cant help myself.
Thanks ,
Bill
Hey Bill,
The truth is, every brand of hobby paint made is a different quality, different formula, different texture. If I was giving a tutorial on airbrushing, I would not recommend Humbrol. It would work, but there are others that, imho, are better than that for airbrushing.
The primary and most important materials in the class is Raw umber oil paint and rectified turpentine. On that, there are no substitutions. That is where we will start. If you use those materials and follow my directions closely, you will have a weathering job that is subtle, totally flat and can almost be used as is after that. The humbrols are for drybrushing and detailing which come later in the tutorial.
I stopped competing in 1984, but once I applied this wash to an 88 gun and did nothing else as far as weathering and it won a first place at an IPMS national convention. It is a very effective weathering process that seems to have been lost among all the filters and pigments, salt finishes and on and on. Don't misunderstand, those are great systems, but as I keep saying, you have to walk before you run.
I know there are some that would like to be in this build, but don't want to put forth the time and expense of acquiring these materials. Without the two absolutes, I would suggest you just watch and if there are good results, you can always buy the needed materials later.
I have tried Testors, Pactra, Floquil, Polly S, Andrea, Vallejo, Tamiya and many others over the years. I have never been able to dry brush with them and obtain a subtle finish. Somehow, they always seem to streak or look overdone. There is nothing more obvious than a drybrushing job that isn't subtle. It just sticks out like a sore thumb. You can say the same for a wash. If you get drybrushing down pat, it will look as if it were airbrushed that way.
The color of the tank in the pic you posted looks fine to me. As we go through this, it will change colors a couple of times. I have never worried over base coats as the weathering process will change it dramatically and you will have choices to lighten, darken or even change the tone. Hope this helps!
Bob
wds
Active member
Re: My Project.
Thanks Bob. I appreciate the feedback and the explanation of the hows and whys. I'm really looking forward to this. Thanks again for doing this for all of us here.
Here it is so far. Nothing special. I sprayed three progressively lighter coats of the OD mixed with the Yelllow green, and then high lighted the tops of the details. Next, paint out the tools and apply decals. I think I’m good to go. Comments, direction or other adult supervision welcome. Thanks for looking.
Bill
Thanks Bob. I appreciate the feedback and the explanation of the hows and whys. I'm really looking forward to this. Thanks again for doing this for all of us here.
Here it is so far. Nothing special. I sprayed three progressively lighter coats of the OD mixed with the Yelllow green, and then high lighted the tops of the details. Next, paint out the tools and apply decals. I think I’m good to go. Comments, direction or other adult supervision welcome. Thanks for looking.
Bill
Re: My Project.
Outstanding Bill, Looks fantastic!!!! After all that, you may not have to go beyond the wash to have a great look.
I'm anxious to get started.
Bob
Thanks Bob. I appreciate the feedback and the explanation of the hows and whys. I'm really looking forward to this. Thanks again for doing this for all of us here.
Here it is so far. Nothing special. I sprayed three progressively lighter coats of the OD mixed with the Yelllow green, and then high lighted the tops of the details. Next, paint out the tools and apply decals. I think I’m good to go. Comments, direction or other adult supervision welcome. Thanks for looking.
Bill
Outstanding Bill, Looks fantastic!!!! After all that, you may not have to go beyond the wash to have a great look.
I'm anxious to get started.
Bob
wds
Active member
Thanks Bob! I'm chomping at the bit too!
I used a metal stencil to cut star masks (4) out of Tamiya masking tape and sprayed them. Sprayed Future where the decals would go, decaled with the kit decals (with a little latitude) and brushed out the tools with Vallejo acrylics. Painted the tires and glued on the boogies. I’ll give the paint a day or two to cure, then give it the wash.
Fingers crossed,
Bill
v.180
I used a metal stencil to cut star masks (4) out of Tamiya masking tape and sprayed them. Sprayed Future where the decals would go, decaled with the kit decals (with a little latitude) and brushed out the tools with Vallejo acrylics. Painted the tires and glued on the boogies. I’ll give the paint a day or two to cure, then give it the wash.
Fingers crossed,
Bill
v.180
It's lookin' great to me Bill.
You did a great job on the stars!
Bob
You did a great job on the stars!
Bob
wds
Active member
Thanks Bob!
Watching the wash dry.
I applied the wash about ten hours ago, and then brought it inside (+/- 70˚ F) to speed up the drying. It actually looks a lot darker in person. I got alittle heavy handed with the blotting and broke a few parts off. The parts were recovered intact and will glue back on fine. Watching and waiting.
Cheers, Bill
v212
Watching the wash dry.
I applied the wash about ten hours ago, and then brought it inside (+/- 70˚ F) to speed up the drying. It actually looks a lot darker in person. I got alittle heavy handed with the blotting and broke a few parts off. The parts were recovered intact and will glue back on fine. Watching and waiting.
Cheers, Bill
v212
Thanks Bob!
Watching the wash dry.
I applied the wash about ten hours ago, and then brought it inside (+/- 70˚ F) to speed up the drying. It actually looks a lot darker in person. I got alittle heavy handed with the blotting and broke a few parts off. The parts were recovered intact and will glue back on fine. Watching and waiting.
Cheers, Bill
v212
Welcome to the club Bill!
I have broken off so many parts in my modeling life than I'll never know.
I want to tell you that you did an outstanding job on the wash. Couldn't have done better myself.
You get an "A" as well as James.
This is so cool. It makes me feel so good when something works.
Absolutely great job!
Bob
wds
Active member
Thanks Bob! (I should probably assign those words a key board short cut)
The second thing I did this morning when I got up was to take a look at it, and at +20 hours since application, it is noticeably lighter and softer in the transitions. The rectified turpentine is indeed magical in this regard. It IS cool. I had some concerns about applying the wash to the lower hull (under the fenders and behind the boogies) because I knew I would not be able to blot it off in those areas. As it turns out, it is not a problem. Granted, I did put in on a little thinner in those areas, but it is drying and lightening nicely. Just Like You Said..
Excited about the outcome,
Bill
The second thing I did this morning when I got up was to take a look at it, and at +20 hours since application, it is noticeably lighter and softer in the transitions. The rectified turpentine is indeed magical in this regard. It IS cool. I had some concerns about applying the wash to the lower hull (under the fenders and behind the boogies) because I knew I would not be able to blot it off in those areas. As it turns out, it is not a problem. Granted, I did put in on a little thinner in those areas, but it is drying and lightening nicely. Just Like You Said..
Excited about the outcome,
Bill
wds
Active member
Thanks Terry and Dusan!
While I await further orders on the Sherman, I applied a “Letterman” wash to the Jeep that I started for the Overlord campaign but stalled on and never got around to finishing. I tried it (the wash) on some stowage from the Tamiya kit as well. I think that it is very effective.
Thanks for looking,
Bill
While I await further orders on the Sherman, I applied a “Letterman” wash to the Jeep that I started for the Overlord campaign but stalled on and never got around to finishing. I tried it (the wash) on some stowage from the Tamiya kit as well. I think that it is very effective.
Thanks for looking,
Bill
Very Nice! You are a quick learner!
I just posted 201. Lesson 1 on dry brushing. The orders have arrived!
Bob
I just posted 201. Lesson 1 on dry brushing. The orders have arrived!
Bob