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TOOLTIME - Glue stand spill prevention.

Heavens Eagle

Well-known member
After reading the trajedy the other day I had to post this up. I did the spill thing too (twice). Then came an idea and it ended up being quite easy to do and cost almost nothing. So here was my solution.

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Hope this gives some good ideas. It doesn't have to be fancy, but in this case I don't have to worry about ever knocking over another solvent bottle. (at least these solvent bottles)

Hope you like it.
 
Paul, I have something similar but you answered the question about opening the bottles easily, silly putty! If one can't find the kid's silly putty, it is sold (way over -priced) as masking putty by several of our European paint manufacturers such as Mig.

Regards,
 
Thanks Paul, great presentation, I almost knocked over my Tenax 7R and I did spill my thin blend, lucky that it did run out very fast, if it had of been the Tenax, all on my bench would be lost.
 
Bob, the base is what makes it stable. I just happened to have the round piece of acrylic that was stashed in my pile of stuff. I believe the couplings were about $1.85 each though I might be wrong.

Yup Saul the Silly Putty works just fine, Have to do some twist work but the bottles come loose fairly easy once you force it a little. Taking the cap off and putting it on doesn't faze it though so it works perfectly.

Gerry, the Ambroid is just as hot as the Tenax though a little less pricey. Same base ingredient. I just use the bottle these days as I use Weld on3 (which is also the same base ingredient). I can get it from an acrylics supplier in a 16oz can for $12. Much more cost effective. I make a small hole in the can seal and use a glass syringe with a LONG needle to extract and refil the bottle. I also keep the bottle fairly full as that keeps evaporation down a bit.
 
I can get it from an acrylics supplier in a 16oz can for $12. Much more cost effective. I make a small hole in the can seal and use a glass syringe with a LONG needle to extract and refil the bottle. I also keep the bottle fairly full as that keeps evaporation down a bit.

Great tip on keeping it full, especially since one is not knocking it over anymore. Here's a thought (for me at least). If one is going through the trouble of refilling it from a large container (Lowes sells quarts and half gallons), why not glue the bottles to the base with epoxy cement and leave out the silly putty?

Just thinking aloud... I may consider drilling some 2X4 to the diameter of the bottles needed and glue them in place. Can't spill it, cheap enough, wood isn't affected by the chemicals...

Regards,
 
I learned a long time ago to refrain from doing things permanent on tools and such. If you ever want to remove it your up the creek.
With the silly putty I can remove the bottle, swap it, or clean it out. Or I can do photo bits like I did with this.
After looking at the photos, I did notice that the solvent jar in the stand is getting some crud on the inside. Eventually I will clean it out. If it were permanant that would be quite difficult.

Options are good.

Oh and the main ingredient of Tenax, ambroid PROWELD and WELDON3 is Methylene Chloride. Then there are the additives which make it more sutable for plastic models.
 
Well, I glued my Ethyl Acetate bottle (bought at a plastics store in Manhattan, NY) to a thick sheet of styrene which I tuck under the edge of my cutting mat. Out of the way and easy to wash out when the chemical is gone and I want to replace with another concoction.

As you wrote, having options is always good!

Regards,
 
Very nice, thanks for sharing. I could see affixing the base to a small lazy susan type of thing to make it easy to rotate the glue you want to the front.
 
Very nice, thanks for sharing. I could see affixing the base to a small lazy susan type of thing to make it easy to rotate the glue you want to the front.

Actually Dan it is only a bit over 6 inches in diameter. The brown bottle has CA accelerant in it. It doesn't really need to rotate. Besides then you wouldn't be able to unscrew the lids with one hand. If I need the other side I just turn it. In keeping it simple it actually works the best. Have been using it now for about 4 years and outside of adding some small things to it like the brackets for the sapphire crystals, it works great as is.

BTW the crystals (round glass things) are damaged sapphire watch crystals from a rather expensive brand of gents watch. They had a small magnifying glass for the date that was removed. None of them is useable on a watch as they are badly chipped or damaged on the outer surface. The inner surface is perfect though and is great for placing a drop of CA to dip an applicator into. When the CA fully dries or sets up I just take a sharp razor blade and scrape it off nice and clean. They are so hard that it is unlikely I will scratch the surface and so very reuseable. Also quite inert so they won't react to superglues, epoxys or resins. If I had not repurposed them they would have ended up in the trash.
 
GREAT IDEA! Wish I saw this prior to spilling that very stuff you have pictured all over my DML SDKFZ. 251/22!
 
Very cool. I made something similar using PVC board. It holds my glue and decal setting solution.
 
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