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Painting the large scale 1/9 figure "Cossack".

alex wence de leon

Master at Arms
Painting the large scale figure "Cossack" with blended artist oil colors.​

1/9th scaleCossack figure converted/sculpted ready for paint.

figpaint21.jpg


Black/brown leather boots paint selection:
under coat: Reaper-Walnut Brown. (acrylic)
base color: Gamblin-Burnt Umber/Mars Black mix.
highlight: Winsor & Newton-Flesh Tint.
Shadow: Gamblin-Mars Black.


figpaint24.jpg


figpaint25.jpg


Brown Leather fingerless gauntlet gloves.
Paint Selection:
undercoat: Reaper-Walnut Brown (acrylic)
base color: Gamblin-Burnt Umber & Burnt Siena mix.
1st highlight: Gamblin-Cadmium Red Light.
2nd highlight: Gamblin-Radiant Lemon.
shadow: Gamblin-Mars Black.

figpaint26.jpg


Painting the Cossack Trousers.
Paint list:
Under-coat: Reaper-Brilliant Blue (acrylic).
Base color: Faded Navy Blue, Black, White mix.
Highlight: Naples Yellow Light.
Shadow: Burnt Umber.


figpaint27.jpg


to be continued...

thank you

alex wence de leon​
 
Thinning, blending & fast drying agents:
MIG's-502 Abteilung Odourless Turpentine
Grumbacher's-Oil painting Medium #1
These mediums are used exclusively with the painting of the Iron Horse Cossack
.

figpaint28.jpg




to be continued...

thank you
alex wence de leon​
 
Great stuff Alex!

Are we watching this in real time?

Tom

Thank you and yes, you can say that.

I will be posting "real time" for the next two weeks (before spring break) and hopefully continuing to the finish 'real time'.

I have a bunch of in-progress photos of the Cossack's motorcycle and will post those later.

It's a job posting here as well as on my facebook page and over at planetarmor, but I'm having fun and that's all that really matters...having fun.

take care

alex wence de leon
 
'Russian Green' blended artist oil color applied to the Cossack's "gymnasterka" tunic-shirt.

figpaint30.jpg


to be continued...

thank you
alex wence de leon
 
Looking very good!
Thanks for the add on facebook :)
//Mats

Thank you and you are welcome.

Yes, facebook is a great way to promote our hobby, once you get past all the other BS that pops up there.
I'v hand good luck there having done much 'networking' with many, many others (more than any other place) discussing and promoting miniatures.

A lot of people want to discount it for what it is, but not me. I will ride that wave until the 'next big thing' comes along.

take care

alex wence de leon
 
Really cool Alex. I love working with oil paints too. Do you have a clear flat coat planned for this?

Tom
 
ALEX,

Hey Buddy. Glad to see ya here.

Great job on th Cossack. Awesome really ! Beautiful work !!

Question : How do you use th Grumbacher Painting Medium ? How fast does it speed th drying time ?

:popcorn :drinks :ro:
 
ALEX,

Hey Buddy. Glad to see ya here.

Great job on th Cossack. Awesome really ! Beautiful work !!

Question : How do you use th Grumbacher Painting Medium ? How fast does it speed th drying time ?

:popcorn :drinks :ro:

Thank you and thanks for the question.

A few drops of the #1 medium with a couple drops of the odorless turpentine are added to the pile (dollop) of artist oil color on the pallet. The paint can last (stay moist) on the pallet for 3 or 4 days by mixing in the medium/turpentine daily.

Remember, this is what works for me and can be way different for others.

Drying time? After a couple of days (48 hours) I can loosely handle the parts with my fingers.

Patience and the "long run" is the key painting figures with artist oil colors.

I have been painting with artist oils since 1984 (28 years) and to this day, sill learning the craft.

take care

alex wence de leon
 
Really cool Alex. I love working with oil paints too. Do you have a clear flat coat planned for this?

Tom

Thank you and thanks for the question.

This can turn "into a can of worms" here.

I say sat that because you will probably get many answers to a simple question.

Actual that question in not at all "simple", but very important.

I have used a few different 'flat' varnishes in the past from lacquer base to water base acrylic. I have lately gotten away from lacquer base (after using it for many years) and now exclusively use water base acrylic flat varnish.

What ever you are comfortable with, use it. Experiment and do test shots with different brands and types, before you "hose down" you newly painted figure.

The most concern I have with giving a figure a 'flat' varnish is the moisture in the air or atmosphere around you at the time.

I never apply any lacquer paint or 'flat' varnish on rainy, wet or foggy days.

I also chose to heat the figure with a hair dryer before and after the flat varnish application.

Control the amount of heated air on the figure and USE COMMON SENSE. Do Not go crazy, lingering, pointing directly with the heated air, just try to neutralize the moisture in the air around the part to be varnished.

This is what works for me and can be different for others.
 
Thanks for the info Alex.

Yes, it seems the perfect dead flat clear coat is still a mystery. Last time I painted a figure I had
pretty good luck with Vallejo Matt Varnish, applied with a brush. It still wasn't quite flat enough,
so after it dried I scrubbed it with some appropriately colored pigments, and that seemed to help dull
it down some more.

Oh, I was also wondering (maybe I missed it), did you sculp this figure?

Looking forward to more of your painting,
Tom
 
Thanks for the info Alex.

Yes, it seems the perfect dead flat clear coat is still a mystery. Last time I painted a figure I had
pretty good luck with Vallejo Matt Varnish, applied with a brush. It still wasn't quite flat enough,
so after it dried I scrubbed it with some appropriately colored pigments, and that seemed to help dull
it down some more.

Oh, I was also wondering (maybe I missed it), did you sculp this figure?

Looking forward to more of your painting,
Tom

Thanks and the figure is a converted figure with much sculpted features. the original box figure is the 1/9th Cossack figure from Jaguar Miniatures.

thanks for asking

alex wence de leon
 
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